Saddle tilt - IMO the single most critical adjustment on the bike after seat height (and closely related; altering one can affect the other). I insist on seatposts with 2-bolt clamps like h the Thompson, the old SunTours and a number of the Nittos. Any bike I set up gets a few rides with all the seatpost wrenches and stops whenever I feel I can improve on what I've got. (The huge advantage of the two bolt posts is that you can adjust the tilt mid-ride with no measuring tools (tape measure or level), try it and return exactly to what you were riding before if you don't like it. Or exactly half way between. I'm a rider who uses the entire length of the saddle. The nose or "on-the-rivet when I feel like going hard. All the way back climbing a-la-Bernard Thevenet (Tour de France circa 1980) or pulled forward because climbing can be simply hard. I never had "one spot" for flat ground. I'll ride "here" then move say a half inch for a change. And if I am on a seat that works for me and I've got the tilt (and other stuff; reach drop, cleats ...) dialed in, I do all this and maybe realize after I get home I didn't think of my seat once the entire ride.

I am also a fan of seatposts with much more than the needed setback. To me, a good fitting seatpost puts the clamp in the center of the flat section of the seat rails so I can play with fore and aft all I want and never hit the rail limit (and not break another expensive ti seat clamping on the beginning of the rail curve. If you are even close to that curve, see to it the post clamp has a nice curve to the end of the clamping area. Add that curvature with a round file if it isn't there. Ti railed seats are expensive and the breakage will happen mid-ride. BTDT.

Not cheap but - a decent framebuilder or machinist can fabricate a seatpost of any setback. He can also purchase the excellent Thompson clamp. Ti Cycles has built me two 60mm setback posts with those clamps. Joys to use. (I'm a long legged rider who fits on the classic 25mm setback post set in a 72.5 degree seat tube. But I also need the rear wheel close to the bottom bracket if I want a bike that corners securely on rough downhill turns. (All the good handling bikes I have ridden have chainstays less that 40cm, 16".) If I want big bike tires, maybe fenders and no rub on the seat tube, that seat tube's gotta be pretty steep. Or curved. Sadly, I didn't think of curved when I had my last two customs made. So instead I had those two 60mm setback posts made. They work really, really well and the clamps are near centered on both. (The seat tube of my avatar photo fix gear is 75 degrees! But I ride fix gears with my whole position rotated forward. Yes, more weight on my hands. But fixed, the wind is a lot less forgiving!