View Single Post
Old 06-10-25 | 10:28 AM
  #14  
maddog34's Avatar
maddog34
Senior Member
10 Anniversary
Community Builder
Community Influencer
Active Streak: 30 Days
 
Joined: Jul 2015
Posts: 7,372
Likes: 3,218
From: NW Oregon

Bikes: 1982 Trek 930R Custom, '91 Diamondback Ascent w/ XT, XTR updates, Fuji Team Pro CF road flyer, Specialized Sirrus Gravel Convert, '09 Comencal Meta 5.5 XC, '02 Marin MBX500, '84 Gitane Criterium bike

Originally Posted by 13ollocks
Obviously inadequate for horizontal dropouts, but they work fine for either fork ends or vertical dropouts. These are widely used, at least partially because they're cheaper than internal-cam QRs, but I'm unaware of a rash of wheels flying off, despite the pessimistic predictions of some crusty traditionalists. The problem in this instance was that the QR was simply too loose and ground away at the dropout material. This was user error and would have been the case with any sort of QR.
that wear can also occur from using the QR as a Wingnut lever...steel ones chew up the dropouts faster, in that case...

the axle is now flush to the dropout's outer face... the wear will be found in the top of the dropout too..

getting the dropout welded up, when reworking it to fit properly, is a very highly skilled task that most people should not attempt, nor could do well.
the difference between "Level" and too far is a matter of two or three strokes with a file.
i re-dress fork dropouts on brand new Walmart bikes fairly often... the workers are instructed to use off-center wheels to "compensate" for the leveling errors, which actually exacerbates the problems.

Last edited by maddog34; 06-10-25 at 10:34 AM.
maddog34 is offline  
Reply