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Old 06-16-25 | 10:20 AM
  #7  
sd5782
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Joined: Jan 2019
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From: Toledo Ohio

Bikes: 1964 Huffy Sportsman, 1972 Fuji Newest, 1973 Schwinn Super Sport (3), 1982 Trek 412, 1983 Trek 700, 1989 Miyata 1000LT, 1991 Bianchi Boardwalk, plus others

I’ve tried to use the very limited vertical slop in the dropouts already. It’s maybe at most 1 mm on each side. If this bike didn’t have those cool shot in style seat stays, one probably wouldn’t even notice. My other latest thought after getting some proper dropout adjusters is a round file on the top side of the left dropout but just in one localized spot. One could carefully take off a bit at a time until the angle is correct. I wouldn’t think it would take too much more than 1 mm. One could then slide the wheel in as far as the adjusters which would locate the sweet spot. Setting weight back down on the bike then would then locate the axle in the little rounded notch before tightening the QR.

That’s kinda why I was asking here, as I wouldn’t think this is all that uncommon. Another frame observation with that seat stay style is perhaps that contributed to the problem in the first place. The stays are brazed on either side of the seat post pinch slot. The post I pulled out was no longer round. It was about 26.9mm front to back and 27.3 side to side as if it was crushed a bit by forces from riding. Perhaps that is why this style isn’t common although I think I see it on Raleigh Professionals on some years. The post had no markings and seemed thin and lower quality. I have a beefier 27.2 in it now. One does have to pry the ears on the clamp open a bit for insertion though. It seems there is some upward forces on it even in its static state.

I did just watch a couple of those videos. Thanks.

Last edited by sd5782; 06-16-25 at 10:39 AM.
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