Yeah, well, it's about 30 minutes away and I just haven't had time. Not going to make it there during a work week, and this weekend has been full of other errands and chores. That's one reason I almost always ride at night. And I've already ridden it over 1,000 miles this way, what's a bit more.

I'm not too worried about the LBS fixing it for free or not. Don't care. I wanted to see what was in there myself.

Been watching Park Tool videos to learn more about headsets. So please bear with me if I don't have all the terminology down.

Looks like the top bearing is an integrated design with a sealed cartridge bearing.



But when I pulled out the fork, at the bottom I found the caged bearing that seems to be a zero stack setup. Lots of dirt and crud, and no grease left.


Here is the cup that is press-fit inside the bottom of the head tube:


The reason for the gap appears to be the crown race. It was not press-fit onto the fork, I was able to slip it off with my fingers. It was just sitting on top of this shoulder on the fork.
Or is this shoulder on the fork the crown race, and for some reason they added another? I don't think so, but at the same time when I inspected the crown race that I slipped off I don't see how it could be driven over this shoulder.



Here is the bearing next to the crown race I removed. I cleaned them up, added grease, put it all back together the same way, and have the same gap. I don't really have a tool that I could have used to drive on the crown race, and if it's the wrong one, I didn't want to damage anything.


I'm going to try to make time to bring it back to the shop this week. Maybe Wednesday afternoon. I am wondering if they can drive out the bottom cup and convert this over to an integrated design with a cartridge bearing? I think it was supposed to be that way from the beginning. If not, I'll have them replace the rusty crown race and bottom bearing, and seat things properly.

Mark