No need for that, a tourniquet is easier and with luck will maintain the tracking. If it doesn't move symmetrically (check with string and a ruler) you can just support the seat tube and head tube off the floor, and step on the chainstay whichever side you want to move. It doesn't take a lot of force to move it over.

n.b. Only for steel frames; you can reset a welded aluminium frame but it's supposedly more likely to have future problems. Less hassle to use the right width hub for the frame you have, either with a longer axle or swap a whole hub into an existing wheelset. If the longer axle has all the extra spacers on the NDS you will have to redish the wheel towards that side, resulting in less uneven spoke tension and a more stable wheel. This will widen the chainline so you may need to adjust the front mech to suit.