it's REAL easy to Over-Tighten the Axle-to-Bearing adjustment... there should actually be the tiniest amount of end play when they're adjusted correctly... the quick release compresses the axle slightly when set....YES, this Fact is True. I was once a non-believer. A simple test proved it to me.
a bare hub assy. in a dropout, tighten the QR...... Instant drag on a "perfect" adjusted hub .

and it sounds like there was already damage to the axle cones, bearing balls, and possibly the hub cups.

take it apart again, inspect the cones and bearing balls With A Magnifying Glass.
i use my finger nail to check the bearings too.

and the adjustment Changes when you snug down the jamnuts... start tightening the jam with Too much play.. about 1/16 to 1/8 turn too loose ends up "right".. it may take a few tries... or more. I Jam the Drive Side cone/jam nut first... then adjust on only the Non-Drive Side.
With practice, you can do final adjust with the NDS semi-tighened, while holding the drive side with a wrench... some place the drive side in a bench vice.. Carefully! (protect the jam nut! soft jaws or a folded shop towel works.) then do a final snug of the NDS set, and re-check for a TINY amount of play.
and if you're trying to do this task without thin wrenches... just give up and buy them, ok?
Park Tool SCW-15 works on 95% of all Rear hubs... the SCW-13 for most front hubs.. there are less expensive ones, but the parks always outlast them, by a wide margin.

or... take the wheel to a competent bike mechanic for final setting, IF the bearing surfaces check out perfect.

one more thing... TOO much grease can cause extreme drag... been there, done that... 55 years ago.
Never PACK a bike hub full of thick grease. Bicycle grease is kinda thin for good reason, and only the bearing cups should get greased,, about half full.