Originally Posted by
Tourist in MSN
That is correct, nobody knows.
But if they already have a bike that fits them well, they have something to go by. The last three bikes that I bought (one as a complete bike, two as bare frames), I first looked at effective top tube on the manufacturer's geometry chart. I already had a couple bikes that fit me well, so I had base measurements to work with. Thus it was pretty easy to pick the right size. All three of these were ordered on-line. I first looked at effective top tube length or if that was missing on their chart, the actual top tube length. And then a quick comparison for standover height and bingo, I have the size I need.
Go back a decade and a half ago, I was trying to figure out the size I needed from Thorn by providing various body measurements to them. They decided I needed a size 610S. If this was still the world of "fist full of seat post" sizing, I would have said no to that size because the last horizontal top tube bike that I bought based solely on stand over height was in 1973 when I bought a Raleigh Grand Prix, size 23.5 inch (which today is 59cm). Thus, I knew that with a horizontal top tube, anything bigger than 59 would be too big for stand over. But the Thorn bike I was looking at that they said I need a 61 effective seat tube length, the frame had a sloping top tube and the other measurements on the chart gave me the trust that stand over height would be ok. That bike fits me just fine.
I mentioned earlier in this thread that my rando bike had too long of a reach, changed the handlebars earlier this year. That is one of the three that I bought on line based on top tube length. In this case, when I first built it up, I apparently measured the reach of the handlebars that I installed wrong, that is why I got my reach too long on that bike, a simple case of user error that I finally rectified this year. It was off by less than an inch, so fixing it was not urgent.
And the complete bike that I recently bought, I knew when I ordered it that I would need a different stem to adjust it for size.
You have a valid point that if someone does not have a well fitting bike to use for base measurements, you have to start from scratch. But my point is that do not just size only by seat tube length.
A lot of this discussion misses the fact that frame sizing is general and specific fit is accomplised with stem and seatpost.
Most road bikes that come in 2cm increments only change reach by about 1cm per size. Yet "normal" stems come 90mm to 130mm - a 4cm spread. You would have to get the bike size wildly off before it becomes unlikeable due to TT length.
Which is why the best guide to sizing is the manufacturer's height to size guide.