a 7-speed FW (NOT what I'd be prescribing but it's your business, and I'm not a Doctor!) might well screw onto the hub, you're lucky that Pug was using one with ISO threads that day, but you'll need to
1. add a longer axle + spacers. my guess is for a QR hub you may need one at least 6 mm longer, but then you also
2. need to re-dish the rear wheel
3. spread the rear triangle (see Sheldon Brown's wiki for that using a long 2x4 and so on), my guess is that will have to go to 130mm spacing for a 7-speed FW, but check on that first!
4. back to the axle: tricky thing there is if you want to re-use the cones and locknuts, maybe SOME of the Normandy spacers/washers, you want to get a replacement axle with same threading as the French, which might NOT be what VO sells, measure twice, buy once!

The good news is a U0-8 is pretty soft gaspipe that should be fairly easy to spread, I was shocked at how pliable a U0-8 fork was back when I had a bent job that I decided to straighten!

Here's a link:
https://www.sheldonbrown.com/frame-spacing.html

and note in the text he says that:
"Typical quick-release axles are 11 or 12 mm longer than the spacing of the hub locknuts. This gives 5.5-6 mm of axle protrusion on each side. You don't actually need nearly this much, so for respacing hubs to wider spacing, if you're not adding more than, say, 5-6 mm of spacers, you don't need a new axle. As long as you have 2 or 3 mm sticking out on each side, that's plenty." also that most "Road Bikes" with 7-speed hubs use 126mm OLN, but if it's a Mtn bike that goes to 130mm.
and Sheldon was not a Doctor, either, so take his advice as certainly more reliable than mine, but YMMV