None of the listed (1/4" drive) tools will fit--the caliper screw in that position will prevent anything wider than 5.5 millimeters from turning without damaging the caliper paint/body.

You should start by center-punching the socket, and use a small bit to bore a hole 10mm deep. If the head breaks/is otherwise damaged, it will become invaluable. When/if visegrips or pliers fail, drill the head off, remove the other screw, and remove the caliper (taped out of the way). Enlarge the hole to ~1/8", and use a #2 extractor to back the stub out. You may find some help in applying a hot soldering iron to the screw for a few seconds, to help break the extremely heavy threadlock that Shimano puts on the screws.