yes, these are cartridge bearings, version/size 6200. IIRC these hubs use a press fit for the bearing, both onto the axle and into the hubshell. Removal is most likely a hard whack on the axle end (block of wood between hammer and axle) which usually removes the axle and one bearing. The other bearing can be hammered out with a long punch. Reinstalling Is best with a tool that presses on the bearing sides evenly so no inner/outer race stresses happen.

You could leave the bearings in place and gently pry off the outer seal (the black "rubber" ring between the inner and outer races) and take a look at the balls and race surfaces and whether there's any lube left. If the axle spin is still smooth you might just push some grease into the bearing and reinstall the seal.

Radial contact cartridge bearings don't handle axial forces well and many are designed to have a slight side/end play even when new. Of course this end play will grow with wear. So for me to suggest the end play you feel is too much or bad can't be done without my hands on the hub. However cartridge bearings cost so little ($5-15 for most that hubs use) that when I do hub overhauls at the shop I generally replace the bearings if there's the slightest question. Is the end play felt when riding? I have some Phil hubs with that slight end play that I can feel at the rim with my fingers but not by my butt when riding.

Park, and others, make cartridge bearing remove and install kits for use with a number of common bicycle bearing sizes. Although there are "creative" home methods too for the figuring out. Andy