here's the text of my Attempt to translate that post... replying to a request for translation...

"meh.. i'll try... he's saying that double butted spokes are not as good as a straight gauge spoke, and that since he ruined a rim, he knows more than people that work on bikes every day of their lives.
and his rubber weighs 4lbs, i think
oh, and he knows how to use a scale, and thinks eyelets in rims weaken them, because his rim doesn't have them.
(their aero contour excludes eyelet use, btw)

did i miss any high points?
too bad, i won't read those self-glorifying posts ever again. "

not seeing the word "nonsense" in my post.
here's the post you think you're defending..

" My Velocity DYAD wall cracked because of Grim scratch bakes. So I torture tested it.
This was on my Rohloff14 wheel. I already knew the brake track was deeply scratched on the first tour, by weak caliper GRIM brake pads, with frozen mud in China. Somehow I never fixed it till now. I didn't get my disc mount welded on till I got to Seattle on my second tour.
This September I was on a 92 mile ride when I was hearing crick crick crick all day. So then I put this wheel on my other bike, another 87 miles with it doing the same crick crick. At first I was dumbly thinking the Rohloff had dirt inside rubbing. I took it apart and it did have a sticky black soot coating in there from the oil.
So I finally got a new DYAD rim with new straight 14g DT Swiss spokes, Sapim polyax 14 mm nipples and new SMP 38 mm tires. It was awesome on a ride in my parkade last night. LOL

>>> So of course today I sawed up the rim to examine. I figure that it had at least a 7" crack thru where the top V joins the top of inner cross wall. The tire holding U box section is all intact, so that's why it didn't asplode while I rode those 300 miles. As I was sawing, a lot more around the rim cracked apart. It still didn't deter me from getting another DYAD at all.
So then I started crushing the pieces in the vise and inspecting the spoke holes. ZERO had even a micro crack inside or out. I thought the nipples would have settled into the alu, but hardly any of that apparent. The metal I measured is about 2.8 mm at the hole. I crushed one section both from the sides and top to bottom. Still could NOT make the V top crack of any sort.

>>> BF LBS "experts" have said for years that more metal at the top is not stronger. Obviously this is 99% BALONEY.
Nearly every cracked rim at the holes had STUPID eyelets, that have a hole drilled at least a mm bigger. One of the biggest FARCES in the bike world.
My bike was 120 lbs on tour, like I've said a hundred times. My new wheel is 6.4 lbs without rubber, about 2.5 lbs
So go ahead, let's see anybody praise their fricking 60g lighter MAVIC rims. LOL hahahahaha
Also there was seeped in dirt all inside the top of the rim.
PICS >>>>"

here's hoping you never grim your baked dyads again.
kudos for baking from scratch.
umm.. what is the "top" of a rim, anyway?
and how did your rear hub catch fire? soot results only from fire...
just curious.

sadly, at this rate...i see red buttons in your future.