Old 01-24-26 | 08:56 PM
  #9  
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79pmooney
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Joined: Oct 2014
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From: Portland, OR

Bikes: (2) ti TiCycles, 2007 w/ triple and 2011 fixed, 1979 Peter Mooney, ~1983 Trek 420 now fixed and ~1973 Raleigh Carlton Competition gravel grinder

Yes to internally cammed QRs. Ones with gripping surfaces still in good condition (ie the ridges sharp) are reputed to be better on chromed dropouts I couldn't say. I don't pull any decent internal cam QRs out with my less than massive legs.

Now, chromed dropouts are for vanity and chasing off a demon that very rarely shows its face. (That demon - dropout destroying rust. I've ridden snow and ice bikes into the ground and I could have taken those dropout off, as lousy as they looked, then brazed then into the next bike that was going to lead the same life and they would have served just fine.)

On internal cam skewers - in the '80s or '90s (I don't know the timeline) the design of the cam changed from the shape Campy invented in the 1920s to one that closes the skewer with considerably more force and better resistance to opening accidentally. Well worth having. To my knowledge, Shimano was the first. Campy and most others followed later. I still have a few old Campy NR skewers. I won't use them because 20 year old el cheapo Shimanos keep wheels in place far better. Likewise any all steel Shimano or Quality Bike Parts no-name purchased now. (The nice skewers by both Shimano and Campy of this millennia are sweet to look an and use and hold wonderfully but for the simple job of keeping your wheel where it belongs, those (modern) steel cheapos from reputable companies work just as well.

Edit: Keep the internals of the skewer "head" well greased or oiled. Less friction = more clamping force.
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