Originally Posted by
Kerry K.
CMAW,
Thank you for all the helpful information, just what I was hoping to get! Where did you stay in Bucharest? Do the main roads have ridable shoulders or are cyclists condemed to mingle with hig-speed traffic?
I took a room in a cheap hotel close to the Bucharest central train station, was fine except for a bunch of mosquitos...
Regarding traffic, I had a pretty bad experience in the NE, main road to Suceava. I needed to get there asap, for the sake of replacing a broken shoe and a torn sleeping pad, so instead of meandering through the countryside, I opted for the "quick and dirty" DN17 in order to arrive before shop closing time. That road had no shoulders, was narrow and in bad condition and full of trucks. A pretty stressful day in the saddle as I recall. On the other hand, riding out of Bucharest in NW direction proved easy enough, so it really depends. Recently renovated roads were mostly OK, but as I said, most of the time it's easy to avoid the main roads and stay on the smaller ones. In fact, 'cycling Romania' is limited to the banks of the Danube, EV6 is probably one of the most popular long distance cycle routes in Europe. But everywhere else, especially in the north and the east, there's no specific cycling infrastructure and touring cyclists are scarce. Villagers will sometimes greet you with that slightly bewildered look typical of the Balkans and Turkey: "he's a tourist so he must be rich, he rides a bike so he must be poor." The Romanian countryside is also the last place in Europe where you get to share the road with horse-drawn carts with a family and a few sacks of potatoes, or a guy who goes around sharpening knives and scissors. That in itself is a reason to go there IMO, it will be gone soon enough.
Literally the first cyclists I met after 3 weeks in Romania.