Sorry for being off topic here, responding to previous post.
I added underline, below:
Originally Posted by
Aardwolf
That was quite tedious, but now the results are in ..
Initially I was testing using "Steady High" to speed it up, but the results looked funny so I switched to my intended use - "Fast Flash" which is the daytime flash setting.
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My observations:
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Both lights actually met their specs, unusual these days.
The Cherrybomb gets dimmer as the battery expires, but 1.2v and 1.5v look quite similar.
Li-ion really didn't perform well, I've no idea why. But I quite like the concept.
Alkaline batteries keep going a long time after they're not doing anything very useful.
EBL 1100 mAh NiMH are very good and really quite cheap: £1 each.
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I am not a battery scientist, so this is only a guess on my part. I said this in a previous post in this thread:
.If the hour run time rating is based on declining voltage and possibly declining amperage as the battery runs down, the light gets dimmer over time but, those dim hours that consumed less energy are counted too. The Li Ion AAA batteries put out a constant 1.5 volts and the light should stay bright the whole time until the battery is exhausted, thus no dim hours, thus runtime might be shorter than the math suggests.
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Perhaps I was not clear, what I am saying is that at 1.5 volts, I think the light is brighter and drains the Li Ion 1.5v battery faster. That is why I like those batteries in my kitchen weight scale, the NiMH batteries at lower voltage have a very dim backlight, but last a long time. But I want a brighter backlight, even though it uses more energy in that particular device.
I am surprised that your Li Ion constant voltage batteries ended at 1.23v if I am reading your notes in the table right. The ones I have stay full power and go to nothing when they are empty.
For bike touring where I am tenting, I do not have the luxury of plugging into an outlet daily, I have to be very frugal with my power usage. My last three bike tours, I was self sufficient on electricity with only a dynohub and a dyno powered USB charger to charge a powerbank for several weeks.
I tried the Li Ion AA batteries in my GPS, It is not a cycling GPS model, the Garmin 62/64 series of GPS units use AA batteries. And the run times suggested that the Li Ion should give me good service. In March 2025 I did some measurements with a Garmin 64ST, backlight off but screen constantly on:
.- GPS consumes 0.525 watts with USB cable, no batteries.
- Li Ion AA batteries give me an hour of run time for 0.46 watt hours to recharge the batteries after use.
- Ikea Ladda 2450 AA NiMH batteries, recharged in a Eneloop two cell charger (powered by USB cable) consumed 0.58 watt hours to recharge the batteries for every hour of GPS runtime.
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Thus, the Li Ion batteries should require less total energy than the NiMH batteries. I think the recharging process for NiMH batteries consumes more energy than it does for Li Ion.
On a bike tour I usually charge my AA NiMH batteries that I use for the GPS in my GPS while rolling instead of using the charger on the batteries later. (This takes a work around to use the built in charger in the Garmin on NiMH batteries, I have to fool the GPS to think the Garmin proprietary battery pack is installed.) But if I run the Li Ion AA batteries in the GPS I will have to pull the batteries out to charge them. Thus, would frequently be swapping batteries if I instead use the Li Ion batteries for touring in my GPS. So, not sure which batteries I want to use on my next tour, I plan to bring both kinds of batteries.
My headlamp (for my head), I will use NiMH batteries, they do not suddenly quit when they run down, I want adequate warning when my battery needs to be changed. I am inclined to use NiMH batteries in my taillights that use AAA batteries for the same reason.
Thank you very much for posting your times and observations. As far as I know, you and I are the only ones on this forum that have tried the constant 1.5v AAA Li Ion rechargeable batteries.