IMO, the problem with adjustment screws is that most (including most of mine) are left too long, which often ends up in tweaked & bent screws. I get wanting to have some versatility but most bikes don’t see frequent changes in dropout adjustment.

In an “ideal” scenario, the wheel is optimized for a given setup, accounting for tire clearances and pulley-to-cog gaps. From there, the adjustment screw is set. Next, the adjustment screw can be cut to length, a few cm outside of the dropout, so the cap can be tightened flush against the dropout. Of course, this means it’s no longer adjustable in the common understanding. However, you can adjust it to the correct (ideal, or optimized position), then trim the extra length, set it & forget it. I did this with my LOOK back in the 80s, almost 40 years ago, and have never needed to re-adjust the dropout screws more than about a turn of a screw.

Note, after cutting the extra length with the adjustment screw in place, you can add some lubricant and back out the screw into the dropout to chase the threads before re-attaching the cap nut.

It’s a nice clean finishing touch imho, not to have that extra dangling bit of adjuster screw off the back of the dropouts. Plus, then you can put the bike on the back of the dropouts without worry.