I'll defer to Doug's recommendations for beginners and hobbyists. I agree that my own time as a beginner was too long ago, so I don't remember what it was like. Versus Doug's interacting with them all the time. The last time I taught beginners was 35 years ago.

I didn't think of myself as that skilled when I brazed my first fork — with brass, came out great and is still being ridden 50 years later. But I had been working at a framebuilding shop for at least a year by then, and had two journeyman FBs looking over my shoulder and sometimes holding my hand literally. So by the time I made my first fork (for my roommate!) I wasn't really a beginner anymore. Nobody in the US gets to be an apprentice for a year before making their first fork these days, that world is gone. (Except for Taiwan and China maybe?)

I am trying to remember why I thought forks should be brass brazed! Almost all of the 1000+ forks I made were brass brazed, but why? Other than maybe some blades that are a bad fit with the sockets, most forks are probably fine with silver. And if that's easier (it's not, for me), then sure, go ahead and silver braze. The cost for one fork's worth of silver isn't going to break the budget.

The next fork I make will probably be brass brazed, but I have the luxury of two torches and a Gasaver. As many here know, a Gasaver is a device that turns off the flow of fuel and O2 when you hang up the torch. So I can use both torches for the heating phase, and hang up the second torch when the crown gets up to brazing temperature, to free up one hand to hold the filler. If anyone is thinking of setting up like that, I can give some tips, but I'm guessing that will not be popular with hobbyists. For example I use two O2 concetrators to do it, one 5 L/min unit wouldn't make enough O2 to run two very large flames. Two torches can run off one O2 bottle and regulator though, with a Y-splitter, for those still using bottled O2. And one bottle takes up a lot less floor space than two O2 concentrators.

Note if you buy a Gasaver used (as I did, mine used to be Mario Confente's), it'll probably come with the pilot light made for acetylene, but the part to convert it to propane is available and cheap. As with torch tips, you can sorta use the acetylene one, but the pilot flame is harder to light, and blows out easily. The pilot light isn't strictly necessary, but it's very nice to be able to pick up the torch and have it light instantly, with the valves still set to the flame you had adjusted it to when you hung it up.

Once you have two torches, you'll find other uses for them, like repairs where you have to sweat a tube out of a lug — it needs to be above the liquidus of the brass everywhere at once, difficult with one torch. Or heavy non-bike heating tasks, like the cracked cast-iron vise I brazed. Brazing CI requires a long slow pre-heat followed by slow cooling, to prevent cracking, but it can be stronger than welding. And very few people skilled at CI welding are around anymore, the last guy we had around here ("Cast Iron Mike"), who could weld a cracked engine block or exhaust manifold to good as new, passed away a couple years ago. Now that's a hard skill to master!