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Old 06-04-26 | 11:56 AM
  #3  
Kmeyer93
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Joined: Apr 2026
Posts: 83
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Originally Posted by maddog34
set the sag at 1/4 total travel available.
it's best done with a helper making the measurements, since any movements by you will alter the position of the o-ring, zip tie, or twist tie.

is the suspension using All of it's travel when you ride hard?
if there are no harsh bottomings happening, you're fine... if it NEVER bottoms, then it's pressure is set too high.

too much rebound damping causes more trouble than not enough pressure... i see this frequently, btw... loosen up the rebound on the fork and rear shock to allow the suspension to be ready for the next bumps.
other signs of too much reb. damping.. front tire washing out in corners, rear kicking up over a series of bumps/whoops, bottoming after a series of bumps(which causes the "kicking up" and "washouts").
sigh... so this is fine? If you saw just thoes first two pictures one being maxed and one being sag you'd say thats setup good? Just a matter of dialing rebound? I guess i just have to ride it hard and see what happens?
Also I did have the front kinda "wash out" on loose gravel earlier ide call it about to "low side" but my dirt bike instinct kicked in and saved it. That may have just been lil too much brake thru the turn. Its a new bike first time with air forks and hydro brakes!
also rebound settings.. the plus slows it down and the minus speeds it up?! And opening rebound speeds it up but closing it slows it down?! All the wording is backwards.. on motorcycles we say increase rebound or decrease rebound. Increase means more decrease means less lmao
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