Originally Posted by Re Cycle
I did take the bike out to a parking lot and made circles to try and determine my "safe range" the first day I rode the bike. In my mind, I absolutely need to have that range ingrained and practiced in my head before I feel I can safely ride this bike. . I also found some spacious business center type areas where I could ride in the evenings turning corners, making u-turns etc. at different rates of speed right on a street, so I can further assess my range and where the potential problem will arise. I have only owned the bike three days, and don't feel I completely understand where the problem arises--but even a right or left turn onto a tight city street can cause overlap. I am not racing around the corners, as that is impractical given the environment. I have also mounted the bike in the hallway of my hosue and pedaled backward while shifting the handlebars. I am just really surprised at how little shift in bars it takes to make the toe hit.
So if anybody has ideas on predal position, turning techniques, etc., that might help me get around this issue, I'd really appreciate it. And thank you everybody for your suggestions and remarks so far. I am new to this forum and so far I'm impressed with all the great information I'm finding here.
I'm no expert in bike design, but, I ride a Cannondale Cyclocross with 185 mm cranks and purchased my first set of clipless pedals not long agoe - my LBS sold me a pair of MTB shoes - in my mind, they are pointy-toed - and I got them a little long because my feet are EEE. Long story short, in slow maneuvers where I have to even partially depend upon steering to remain upright, I have to also remember to keep my feet out of the way, or they will definitely hit the wheel and interfere with my steering. This has occurred a number of times - when it does, I don't crash, I just quickly move my feet - either I elevate my toe on the pedal or I back pedal, whatever it takes. If I anticipate properly, I might pedal in quarter strokes - just enough to maintain sufficient forward momentum, still keeping my clod-hoppers away from the wheel until I have finished with the fancy steering maneuvers.
I would say that, unless your toes are nearly interfering when you ride in a straight line, then, the overlap you describe is not unusual. Most u-turns and right-angle turns at intersections will be made at something less than an upright riding position - you'll still be leaning into the turn, so that you don't really need to be turning the wheel so severely that your feet will be in the way.
If I were you, I'd keep riding that bike until you are certain that your concern is not just from the newness of it and the fact that you've been away from riding for a time.
OTOH, biking - riding, fit, brand, size, all of it - is very personal. What I think or suggest means squat if it doesn't work for you. So, as has been suggested, I would not hesitate to go back to the shop and discuss and demonstrate the problem on your bike, and, perhaps, have the LBS demonstrate on yours and other bikes what they consider normal overlap. Perhaps there is some quirk about how that bike fits you that needs to be addressed.
Most of all, I would try not to stress out about it - just keep working on it - individually and in cooperation with your LBS - until you are satisfied that this bike (or whatever you finally decide to hang on to) fits you as well as you can reasonably expect any bike to fit.
Let us know how it all works out for you.
Good luck and have fun.
Caruso