Since you've got the cable cutters, you'll also want to get cable end caps. These are tiny aluminum "tubes" that are closed at one end, and they are crimped onto the end of the cable (using the end cap crimper which is part of your CN-10) so that the cable will not fray or stab you, and it lets you avoid soldering the ends (high-quality cable is difficult to solder anyway). They usually provide a few with the cable package, but if not, you should be able to get a few from your LBS. They come in two sizes, but the larger size will work for both.
You can also use the CN-10 to cut your cable housing, but it won't be as clean as cutting cable. Now you need either a grinder or a Dremel tool to smooth out the cut housing...
Cable housing: the large housing is for the brakes. You should have one long roll (rear) and one short roll (front). The front housing will run from the lever right to the brake caliper. The rear housing will run from the lever to the rear caliper, unless there are cable stops on the frame, in which case you will need to cut the housing to fit. You should have "ferrules" (metal tubes slightly larger than the housing, closed at one end, but with a hole to allow the cable to pass thru) which will need to be pushed onto the cable housing ends. Sometimes Shimano components are not designed to have a ferruled housing run into them, so check by dry-fitting first.
For the derailleurs, you should have two medium-length pieces of housing to run from the levers to the cable stop on the down tube. From there, the front cable runs underneath the bb and up to the front derailleur. The rear cable runs underneath the bb, then thru a stop underneath the right chainstay. From there, you will need the small piece of housing to run from the stop to the rear derailleur. Frame stops are usually designed to be used with ferrules on the cable housing.
Even though good cable housing usually has a teflon sleeve inside, I like to oil or grease the cables before installing.
- L.