I've used the bernzomatic products to make the following frame repairs:
a. replaced a crushed cable stop, and reinforced via fillet its slightly damaged companion stop.
b. mounted 2 new cable stops.
c. filled in some minor tube dents.
I still need to repair a couple dropouts.
I used this torch to cut frame parts off an old donor frame (mapp + atmospheric o2):
http://www.bernzomatic.com/bernzomat...rnzoProd100060
This works ok for this job but is slowwww. However doesnt require super expensive 5-minute-usage o2 bottles. I did not attempt to make repairs with this rig.
I used this torch to make repairs. It will melt the following berzomatic brazing rods, although still takes a minute or so to get up to melting temp:
http://www.bernzomatic.com/bernzomat...rnzoProd100044
This rig comes with 1 mapp and 1 o2. You better pick up 2 more o2 bottles to go with it. Then you'll still have leftover mapp gas. This little rig produces a flame temp near oxyacetylene. You can read the specs on the bernzo website or google research it.
Also, I found it a bit difficult to regulate the o2 on this torch. As i was trying to conserve o2, and not overheat my work, I was operating near O2 cutoff point. So it would light, burn 30 secs and pop off. Relight, repeat. It warmed up after 5 mins or so and worked good, at which point the o2 ran out. Learning is so much fun!
I used these rods, conveniently located next to the kits/gas in the display at home depot:
ni-ag
http://www.bernzomatic.com/bernzomat...rnzoProd100063
cu-sn aka bronze
http://www.bernzomatic.com/bernzomat...rnzoProd100065
The ni-ag is supposedly stronger. Its definitely harder and more difficult to file/dremel off. Seemed to melt about the same. Main difference is the ni-ag costs 3x as much as the bronze. Both these rods are flux coated so no extra flux is needed.
Bernzo doesn't have a brass rod. I looked for some of that fancy all-state rod. It was priced like gold, something like $18 for a few rods, and required special order and long wait. The bernzo rods are 2-4 bucks and sitting there. Since I wasn't doing anything structural/safety critical i went the easy route.
I may have skipped over it somewhere in the thread, but i believe you're going to have to devise a fancy jig to hold those canti bosses in place so that you can attach them. Its not something you can hold with a needle nose plier and achieve good results. Unless you've got a patient helper.
All together i spent ~75 bucks on this stuff. I used it to salvage an otherwise unusable 1990 trek 950 mtb frame (lugged, pretty). Eventually it will become a commuter bike with fenders, rack, light. I'm using a like new 1993 deore dx group for the build plus araya polished rims. Pretty polished parts, but they are heavy. But then so is the trek frame.
ps - make sure you have a well vented area to work - mapp gas smells like you're in the immediate vicinity of a pig farm