1Echo

Hey Tom, just wanted to say you are not alone. I too have minimal clearance between my knees and elbows. Same basic issue as you with short torso and longer legs. I'm 6'1" on a 58cm road bike with clip-on aerobars and if I get a hair off in my position then my knees hit. It's actually a good indicator that I'm fatiguing and need to stretch out a bit more. Hoping I can resolve this one day with a TT bike and fitting from Cobb (about an hour from me).

tombailey

Thanks. I managed to resolve it when I moved from modified road bike to a TT bike. Now just working on 100 other things.

agoodale

I found some very good advice on this thread. Thank you. I'm going to purchase a real TT frame this off-season and will be investing in a TT bike fit when that happens.

In the meantime I've got a short 12k TT coming up on Wed. and would appreciate and advice on my setup. Thanks in advance

Jancouver

Just want to share my wheel cover experience. Did two TTs on the same course two weeks apart. Almost identical weather conditions, pretty much the same power output and same time. First TT was done on 45mm carbon clinchers, the second TT was done on same wheelset with a rear wheel disc covers from Wheelbuilder. To my disappointment the disc cover made no difference over 20K TT.

Just saying ....

waterrockets 

Tip your helmet up so the tail touches your back when you look up slightly. I like to feel it there the whole time.

Same power for both TTs? Similar weather conditions?

AdelaaR

On a 20k TT the expected performance gain of a disc wheel versus a 45mm carbon wheel is, let's say, between 10 and 30 seconds.
You say the weather was "almost identical" and the power was "pretty much the same".
Slight differences in wind or power or power spread might have seriously in fluenced your time here, making the disc come out as having no gain.
You can't just compare one ride to another.
Do the same course at least 5 to 10 times both with and without the covers and then take the average difference ... even then there'll be quite a margin of error but at least a lot less

carleton

I'm debating whether to use standard TT bars or drops with clip-ons on the track.

Assuming I can achieve the desired aero riding position, are there any disadvantages to using drops + clipons compared to standard bullhorns that I may not be aware of?

Thanks

Hida Yanra

for starters, there is the additional surface area of the drops, and the significant amount of turbulence the drops will cause.

androidtt

Took into account all the advice in this thread and aww yeah. Did a solo TT ride and it went MUCH better than the TTT I had 3 months ago. Felt comfortable, used up all the energy I had and was screaming through the 2nd uphill portion. Now for a real tri bike and wheels...

kleinboogie

Just wondering who's doing TTs this season? I'm signed up to the second one at Fiesta Island and will likely get into the rest. GL

AdelaaR

I'm still here ... training on my indoor bike mostly because of bad weather lately around here.
Upgraded my bike quite a bit since last year and just bought myself an edge 500 a few weeks ago, so now I will have HR and CAD to help me get the most out of my TT's ... still not as good as a power meter but it's a major improvement over just a little speedometer
First nice weather no work day of the year, I'll be doing some HR/CAD TT tests on a flat road next to a canal I recently discovered.
Good times comin' up
Good luck to all.

danahs

are time trials that are part of stage races eligible for upgrade points when going from CAT 2 to CAT 1?

waterrockets 

Nope, only mass-start placings. There are stage race overall points, which could include a TT, but not for the individual TT stage.

Here are the (simple) details:
https://www.usacycling.org/news/user/story.php?id=580

echappist

maybe 217, but words from a wise man

https://www.cyclingnews.com/news/lond...ritish-cycling

colobrio

I've got a question regarding bar-end shifters. I've finally replaced my 15 year old road bike, and I'm planning on converting it to dedicated TT bike. The frame was always a little small for me, and I can get into a reasonably low position on it. Being cheap (hence the fifteen years), I'm planning on converting the drop bars to bull horns via a chop and flop, and continuing to use clip-on extensions. I would like to get bar-end shifters for the extensions. In googling around, I've found listings for a handful of shifters marketed as "TT" or aerobar bar end shifters, all of which seem surprisingly pricey. Is there any reason why any bar end shifter wouldn't work (setting aside Campy to Shimano compatibility issues)? Does it matter that it's going at the of an aerobar extension rather than at the bottom of the drops on a touring bike?

Racer Ex 

I used some old Sun Tour shifters on one of my training rigs. As long as the throw of the shifter covers the cassette range, the bar ID mates with the shifter OD, and you don't mind friction shifting, you're good to go.

colobrio

Thanks, RacerEx, exactly what I needed to know. Quite a bit's changed, gear wise, in the thirteen years I went without racing a road bike. I would prefer friction for the front; rear, I guess it depends on price.

KoolAidnPizza

How fast do you all think (opinion) someone should be on a road bike before making the upgrade to a tt frame? Example - 20k time should be around xx:xx before they have reached limitations due to there kit.? Just curious. Thanks guys

kensuf

Irrelevant. I think it depends on the individual, their goals, the type of races they want to do, and their expendable cash. If you never want to do a TT, then don't buy a TT bike. If you want to become a TT specialist, then get a TT bike.

KoolAidnPizza

Well I'm interested in tt and iv did a tri recently and quite enjoyed it. (punishable by death I know). A Time trial bike seems like an investment I'll eventually make but I don't know how long it'll be

AdelaaR

I don't know what you call pricey ... but I bought my Dura Ace 10 speed TT shifters new for 75€. They came with brake cables and housings even for that price. The front is a sort of raspy friction action (which I like because it helps to trim the front mech) and the rear is Shimano STI.
Great stuff

AdelaaR

You are always "limited by your kit", but a TT frame makes only a very small difference, so the question should be: "am I willing to spend x to make me a few seconds faster on (y)k?"

Then again ... having done a few TT's myself ... I know that riding a TT with gear that is not near perfect will always give you an excuse to be slow.
Personally ... I ride to compete against myself primarily, but I also like to look at my results relative to others' to be able to put them in some perspective.
The thing is ... if you ride inferior gear compared to other people in the same race ... you'll be able to fool yourself by telling yourself that "they are faster because they have better gear".

It is only when you have a near perfect TT machine that you can really ride "the race of truth" ... a race where you can not lie to yourself anymore and where you are naked in the sense that your achievement relies only on yourself and your abilities.

AdelaaR

Full-on TT bikes do not have to be uber expensive, you know.
I bought mine piece by piece and waited for the right bargins. Second hand for the frameset & wheels and in clearance sale new for the drivetrain.
I was able to assemble a full carbon, ultegra & dura ace, rear disc & 404 front bike for under 1500€, which I find very reasonable.

KoolAidnPizza

I deffinately understand that, I know that I could do better with aero wheels and bars. But I don't know how much the frame will benefit me. Im not one to blame my equipment, because the majority of the blame should be on the engine. I think minor upgrades could make my current setup atleast satisfactory

Racer Ex 

A good TT frame, at 30mph, might save you up to 10w or so depending on yaw angle. The biggest benefit to TT specific geometry is position flexibility. That said there's a lot more to sort out than the frame.