nitropowered

Edge

Psimet2001 

What I meant by same rim is same manufacturer. There aren't that many around and even fewer who single source their rims.

MtnRide

Ah, good to know. Thanks.

fordfasterr

Neuvation Cycling !!!

CrimsonKarter21

I just raced on a hodgepodge of Zipp. Zed8 in the rear with a 404 up front. Super fast combo. My next set of wheels' depth will be in the 80ish mm range.

umd

I'd love some deeper wheels... I run 46mm race wheels now, but I'm going to get some 45mm clinchers for my everyday wheels next year and I'd love to get some 68-90mm rims for race wheels.

CrimsonKarter21

When I got to the race on Sunday, the team owner pulls in next to me in the parking lot and as I'm putting on my 50mm carbon wheels on my bike, he asks if I want to run his spare set of Zed8's. I think about it for a minute; the tires aren't my Vittoria Pave's, but I decided to go with them anyways.
I really liked them. My next set of carbon wheels will either be some 808s or Token T85s.
These deep wheels are now as light as climbing wheels were a few years ago, so it's not like they're very slow anymore.

Psimet2001 

Forgive the crappy decals...they are temporary and not even applied evenly. This is my demo set and I was trying to work something up that could be seen at the Illinois Road Race Championships this weekend.



24f1x - DT Revs/28r2x - DT Comp laced to White Industries H2 hubs. 50mm full carbon clincher version.

Stellar.

TrippleB

please consider tubulars for your race wheels!

aside from all of the performance benefits, you will have more control if you puncture, which is something everyone around you will appreciate in a race!

puncturing at high speed or in a turn with clinchers almost guarantees that you and your bike will meet the pavement.

carbon clinchers may seem like the next great thing on the market, but their development is not as much performance driven as it is catering to consumer demand. carbon clinchers also have one serious disadvantage over aluminum clinchers.

Carbon clinchers increase your risk of a blowout puncutre. The most common puncture I see on rides and races is not a debris puncutre, but a blowout. A blowout is caused by too much air pressure in the tube. On a hot day or under heavy breaking heat is transfered from the road and/or the rim to your tire and tube. In such conditions the 115psi you initually pumped your tire up to can rise significantly. Carbon material increases this problem since it does not dissipate heat well at all, but more effectively transfers it to the tire.

carbon clinchers don't offer any advantages over aluminum clinchers. even if you want aerodynamic clinchers there are several aluminum clinchers with farings on the market that offer the same performance at a lower price.

with the advent of tufo tape, puncutre sealants, and new durable tire compounds with puncture resistant belts, riding tubulars is not a hassle. if you do puncture, not only will you have more control, but there is a good chance you can get up and running more quickly than with a clincher.

performance wise, you get less weight, less deflection, less rolling resistance, more durability, and more aerodynamic performance for your dollar with tubulars.

rizz

I like carbon clinchers with aluminum braking surfaces. Am I the only one?

cslone

One of his last posts on it says 4 on the wheel. I just glued some tubulars up last week and 3 coats was right at 1.25 tubes. So maybe like 2 tubes per wheel to get a similar crr as a quality clincher with latex tube.

cslone

The 4 Vittoria Evo's I flatted 2 years ago begs to differ with the durability. Then having to pull them off and buy another $80 tire kinda sealed the deal for me.

CrimsonKarter21

I've used 2 coats on the rim, 2 coats on the tire. The last glue job, I had glue on the rim, so I used 1 coat on the rim.
You should have seen us when we were tearing my old tire off my rim last week at the bike shop. It took three guys 10 minutes just to get one spot off the rim to slip a tire lever into.

TrippleB

i am talking about the wheels

try running more durable tires. tire durability is an entirely different issue. there are great training tires available for tubulars, but thanks to people choosing to run tubulars almost exclusively for racing there are limited avialable options at your local bike shop.

if you don't choose the right rubber for your riding you will have tire issues regardless of wheel type.

as for the cost, decent clinchers cost $50; and while you can replace the tube and roll home, it is advisable to replace your tire after most punctures anyway.

waterrockets 

More spoke sounds, huh? I don't think a dab of oil will fix that one though.

FWIW, I have occasionally come across defective spokes. I had one break on my 36h Deep V for seemingly no reason. I replaced it, and the wheel was flawless for years.

botto 

i have to say that, in retrospect, i'm impressed with the fact that the wheel performed well enough for me not to notice i had a broken spoke until someone pointed it out on the cool down.

even better: went to my lbs to get it fixed. to my surprise, he did it on the spot.

enjoi

That's news to me, i've replaced 4 or 5 tubes per tire before. Even more on my MTB

waterrockets 

Yeah, it sounds like an isolated incident. The quick and easy fix is one of the benefits of sensible wheels (external nips, j-bend spokes )

TrippleB

really, were all those replacements close in milage to each other? because if so, you have made my point.

waterrockets 

Nope, no need to replace a clincher or a tubular for most punctures.

I ride my rear tires until I see threads. After I wear through two rears, I replace the front along with the rear (buy 3 tires at the same time). This leaves the fronts with a little life left in them, which is prudent.

I replace my tubes after 5-10 flats, or if I get a hole in or near a patch.

umd

You are smoking crack dude. I run tires for several thousand miles, replace rears 2-3 months and fronts 4-6 months. I typically get a few flats per month. Most of my flats seem to be from bits of metal, staples etc, and some glass, rarelemy thorns. I run racing tires so they are not the most durable but it hasn't been so much of an inconvenience to run something thicker. The flats are usually pretty far apart, when I get a few close together (in time) I will replace the tire. But one random flat doesn't mean replace tire.

enjoi

i had my P2R for almost 4k miles, i replaced them because the threads were showing. the flats were mostly during the late fall/ early winter. I replaced them 3 weeks ago with no flats since winter.

TrippleB

hmmm

maybe i am on the crack pipe, and maybe i spend too much on tires...but to avoid punctures (or to make myself feel better) I used to drop some extra coin on my clinchers (I only run tubies now)...meh...maybe I should sell you all my tires I can sell you guys my old tubies if you want to fix them up.

i roll pedal force, i can afford to drop my dimes on rubber

my comment was from my experience that puncutres typically result from thin rubber; i.e. either race rubber or worn tires.

umd

How long does 2400 hours take you? Anyway, worn tires are more likely to flat of course so if I suddenly start getting a bunch of flats I'll replace the tire; usually I replace them before they get that bad. But just a flat here or there does not mean the tire is bad... Such is the price to pay for running thin tires...

CrimsonKarter21

Wow, I replace my tires when they start to square away. I just replaced my rear Vittoria tubular because the filed center pattern was worn down.

After racing karts for years, I make sure my tires GRIP. Added to that, I really lean into turns. I'm hell on tires.