Stupid questions about gears/cassettes. Sorry!
#1
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Stupid questions about gears/cassettes. Sorry!
OK, on my S3, I got a Di2 53/39 172 crank and on my P4 I got a Zipp Vumachronos 170 53/39. WTF do these numbers mean? I have no idea....Just took the advice of some bike pro.
I got 7 Dura Ace 7900 cassettes: 11-21, 11-23, 11-25. A buddy told me I need a 28 for a hilly road race so I'm gonna get one of those. Why? No idea.
I see that there are also available cassettes numbered 12-21, 12-23, etc.....
What's the diff between the "11s" and the "12s??"
How's an average shmoe like me supposed to decifer all these numbers???
(scratches head with total befuddlement)
Thanks again for your patience and input.
I got 7 Dura Ace 7900 cassettes: 11-21, 11-23, 11-25. A buddy told me I need a 28 for a hilly road race so I'm gonna get one of those. Why? No idea.
I see that there are also available cassettes numbered 12-21, 12-23, etc.....
What's the diff between the "11s" and the "12s??"
How's an average shmoe like me supposed to decifer all these numbers???
(scratches head with total befuddlement)
Thanks again for your patience and input.
#3
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You have an S3 and a P4 and have no clue....Wow...
It's early and I need a few secs to blow so here goes...
172, 170 are the crank length...Thingy that your pedal screws in that you turn to make your bike go...
11s, 12s....Number of teeth on the rear cassette...28 gives you a higher gear that makes it easier to spin going up hill...11 will allow you to go faster on the flats, assuming you can push the gear...
Ride, train and read...
It's early and I need a few secs to blow so here goes...
172, 170 are the crank length...Thingy that your pedal screws in that you turn to make your bike go...
11s, 12s....Number of teeth on the rear cassette...28 gives you a higher gear that makes it easier to spin going up hill...11 will allow you to go faster on the flats, assuming you can push the gear...
Ride, train and read...
#7
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#11
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so you just do what he tells you to do, no questions. shouldn't you ask these things *before* you buy something? you can go to mfg websites (or pricepoint) and read up on your parts. or, perhaps, look closely at the parts.
#12
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Sorry, not a troll or DDS. I'm just not a technical guy and a little intimidated with anything mechanical so I pay a professional to work on my bike. Slowly trying to do things myself but unfortunately this sometimes backfires on me. For instance, I travelled with my bike and had to reassemble it. Tried making experimental adjustments to the rear derailleur (Those tiny screws). Day before a race, in a test run, the chain derails behind the cassette and gets jammed!
Had to hitch-hike to a bikeshop and pay a mechanic to fix it.
Makes sense to learn about all this stuff, hence, my stupid questions. Too embarrassed to ask my cycling buddies. ;-)
How does a 12-23 compare with an 11-23? What does the 11/12 refer too?
Had to hitch-hike to a bikeshop and pay a mechanic to fix it.
Makes sense to learn about all this stuff, hence, my stupid questions. Too embarrassed to ask my cycling buddies. ;-)
How does a 12-23 compare with an 11-23? What does the 11/12 refer too?
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when you don't need an 11.
a 11-25 has 11,12,13,14,15,17,19,21,23,25
a 12-25 has 12,13,14,15,16,17,19,21,23,25
That 16t cog that's on the 12-25 is awfully handy. The 11-25 has a large gap from the 15 to the 17. So if you're riding at a speed where the 16t cog would be ideal, you have to either turn the pedals faster on the 17t, or slower on the 15t. If you don't use the 11t then using a 12-xx cassette would avoid this problem.
a 11-25 has 11,12,13,14,15,17,19,21,23,25
a 12-25 has 12,13,14,15,16,17,19,21,23,25
That 16t cog that's on the 12-25 is awfully handy. The 11-25 has a large gap from the 15 to the 17. So if you're riding at a speed where the 16t cog would be ideal, you have to either turn the pedals faster on the 17t, or slower on the 15t. If you don't use the 11t then using a 12-xx cassette would avoid this problem.
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The more teeth on the rear sprocket the lower the gear, therefore the easier to push. So a 12 sprocket is almost 10% lower/easier than an 11, and so on. People use a cassette with a 12 as its lowest gear if they find they rarely go fast enough to need the 11, or want a bigger sprocket at the top end for climbing, without sacrificing the close ratios implied by moving up in small steps. Personally I can't be bothered swapping cassettes/ wheels all the time, and there's a lot of severe climbs round here, so I usually run a 12-27. I don't race, so don't really need the 11 for sprinting (I can barely sprint out of sight on a dark night anyway LOL) and having the 27 means I can climb virtually anything. The price I pay is a more substantial step up between gears - the cassette goes 12, 13, 14, 15, 17, 19, 21, 23, 25, 27.
I'm giving you the benefit of the doubt here, but I still can't really believe that anyone who claims to race bikes doesn't know this stuff.
I'm giving you the benefit of the doubt here, but I still can't really believe that anyone who claims to race bikes doesn't know this stuff.
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OK, thx for the info, guys.
And yes, I'm a troll that has nothing better to do than to make believe I'm a new bike racer asking detailed questions on gearing.
And yes, I'm a troll that has nothing better to do than to make believe I'm a new bike racer asking detailed questions on gearing.
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when you don't need an 11.
a 11-25 has 11,12,13,14,15,17,19,21,23,25
a 12-25 has 12,13,14,15,16,17,19,21,23,25
That 16t cog that's on the 12-25 is awfully handy. The 11-25 has a large gap from the 15 to the 17. So if you're riding at a speed where the 16t cog would be ideal, you have to either turn the pedals faster on the 17t, or slower on the 15t. If you don't use the 11t then using a 12-xx cassette would avoid this problem.
a 11-25 has 11,12,13,14,15,17,19,21,23,25
a 12-25 has 12,13,14,15,16,17,19,21,23,25
That 16t cog that's on the 12-25 is awfully handy. The 11-25 has a large gap from the 15 to the 17. So if you're riding at a speed where the 16t cog would be ideal, you have to either turn the pedals faster on the 17t, or slower on the 15t. If you don't use the 11t then using a 12-xx cassette would avoid this problem.
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OK, on my S3, I got a Di2 53/39 172 crank and on my P4 I got a Zipp Vumachronos 170 53/39. WTF do these numbers mean? I have no idea....Just took the advice of some bike pro.
I got 7 Dura Ace 7900 cassettes: 11-21, 11-23, 11-25. A buddy told me I need a 28 for a hilly road race so I'm gonna get one of those. Why? No idea.
I see that there are also available cassettes numbered 12-21, 12-23, etc.....
What's the diff between the "11s" and the "12s??"
How's an average shmoe like me supposed to decifer all these numbers???
(scratches head with total befuddlement)
Thanks again for your patience and input.
I got 7 Dura Ace 7900 cassettes: 11-21, 11-23, 11-25. A buddy told me I need a 28 for a hilly road race so I'm gonna get one of those. Why? No idea.
I see that there are also available cassettes numbered 12-21, 12-23, etc.....
What's the diff between the "11s" and the "12s??"
How's an average shmoe like me supposed to decifer all these numbers???
(scratches head with total befuddlement)
Thanks again for your patience and input.
https://www.sheldonbrown.com/gearing/index.html