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Originally Posted by tetonrider
(Post 18540060)
that 'stupid' stem is pretty useful for people dialing in their position. the reason there are no spacers allowed on top is that the top-cap is angled so that the whole thing sits flush when the stem's angle is adjusted.
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Originally Posted by tetonrider
(Post 18540060)
test: is the expander plug's bottom above or below the bottom of the stem? if it's below, you're good to go.
specialized now supplies as default it's longer expander plug...so unless someone is doing something very weird with spacers, everyone should be good to go. you don't really NEED the expander plug, but it does distribute the forces on the stem and prevent slight/accidental over tightening from instantly ruining the steerer. one could even do some JRA with a huge spacer stack to dial in position before cutting...if one is careful. |
Originally Posted by robabeatle
(Post 18540244)
Sort of OT: I'm on a Cdale Evo which I had the stem slammed. Then I switched to a different stem which was a little taller where it clamps to the steering tube. I was in a very gentle crash, basically laid the bike over and when it was checked out, the steering tube was cracked. I am not sure if the crash caused the damage or if it was caused by tightening the stem onto a steering tube that was essentially a few mm too short.
@tetonrider: I have never heard of those sleeves; is that a diy type of thing or can they be purchased? Last two years we've had the Cannondale EVO, MASI Evolution, two S-Works - Venge and Tarmac. The last 3 made in Taiwan. The head tube for the Specialized bikes will not take the expander plug that the Cannondale and MASI would. In simple terms - the ID is smaller, the walls thicker. |
Originally Posted by dz_nuzz
(Post 18538009)
On a side note: I once took a cut piece of steerer tube and attempted to crush it with a stem and a torque wrench. I maxed out the torque wrench, then went gorilla on it, it never broke.
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Originally Posted by jdms mvp
(Post 18540707)
yea i wouldn't imagine it crushing either. I think if anything the concern for some manufacturer would be that if the stem clamps 'air' then there is only one bolt holding it on, and the top cap is pretty aestethi for connecting the bars to the bike
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Originally Posted by wens
(Post 18540736)
Top cap is only necessary to pre load the headset in the designs I'm aware of. You could take the cap off after tightening the stem and have no mechanical change. You might have a steerer tube full of water if it rains, but the joint will work just fine.
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Originally Posted by TheKillerPenguin
(Post 18537676)
I see nothing in my 2015 Tarmac's manual about that, but I'm sure they'd still take extreme issue with the stack I've got going on.
http://i557.photobucket.com/albums/s...s/Picture6.png |
I think that there is a boatload of anecdotal evidence that while this may be "best practice" it is certainly not absolutely necessary.
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basically spacers above or below the stem are ugly. #aestheticsareeverything
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Originally Posted by mike868y
(Post 18540442)
how is that "useful?"
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i've had SPD pedals that came with my bike, but I was kind of wondering about spd-sl, or other more traditional road setup. based on what I've seen, any difference in power transfer might be pretty negligible, so I'm not really thinking of upgrading. but maybe someone can convince me otherwise...
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Power transfer is a non-issue, but I prefer the firmer connection and greater security you get from a road pedal when on the road. I started racing with SPDs back in the day and pulled out once or twice while sprinting. I don't think that's really much of a danger if you have things adjusted tightly and your form is good, after all I've been sprinting on SPDs in cyclocross and that's fine. But I still feel better on road pedals.
I'm not going to try too hard to convince you. If money is no object, yes, do it. If you're looking to be frugal, new pedals and shoes might not get you a lot of bang for the buck. I try to buy nice shoes, infrequently. It's worth waiting and saving to get something great you'll wear for a long while. |
admittedly tearing apart my only working bike in the middle of a busy week at work was not by best decision, but I was sick of fighting with my barely functioning old rear derailleur and I'm done boy. oh boy does 6800 feel nice. just hoping it doesn't explode when i ride tomorrow.
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Originally Posted by mike868y
(Post 18545134)
admittedly tearing apart my only working bike in the middle of a busy week at work was not by best decision, but I was sick of fighting with my barely functioning old rear derailleur and I'm done boy. oh boy does 6800 feel nice. just hoping it doesn't explode when i ride tomorrow.
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yeah but snapping inside the shifter was an issue on 6700 as well.
first ride with the new stuff this morning...still some fine tuning to do on the fd adjustment but jfc this stuff is like magic. |
I may upgrade my power meter from a Stages to an Infocrank in the Spring/Summer. Thoughts? I get a 15% discount, so it'll be something like $1300.
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you can get a new SRM for $1600...
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Originally Posted by canuckbelle
(Post 18548935)
I may upgrade my power meter from a Stages to an Infocrank in the Spring/Summer. Thoughts? I get a 15% discount, so it'll be something like $1300.
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Originally Posted by echappist
(Post 18548950)
you can get a new SRM for $1600...
Smart man. |
Originally Posted by canuckbelle
(Post 18548935)
I may upgrade my power meter from a Stages to an Infocrank in the Spring/Summer. Thoughts? I get a 15% discount, so it'll be something like $1300.
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Originally Posted by rapwithtom
(Post 18549102)
"InfoCrank" - what a great name! Who should have that user name? Certainly somebody!...lots of candidates, but who's the euro guy who's not around much anymore but always used to say, "Incorrect!"?
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I was wondering if this needs its own thread. Anyway - what rim width and profile do you use for what and why? Junior almost always chooses the lower profile (30mm) while many others are using the 60mm. I have not seen rim width matter so much.
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Originally Posted by grolby
(Post 18549332)
That was botto, and he's American.
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Originally Posted by Doge
(Post 18549632)
I was wondering if this needs its own thread. Anyway - what rim width and profile do you use for what and why? Junior almost always chooses the lower profile (30mm) while many others are using the 60mm. I have not seen rim width matter so much.
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Originally Posted by TheKillerPenguin
(Post 18549649)
Technically correct.
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