$43 each at bike24.

Beautiful Pinarello Dogma 65.1 Think 2 Carbon Bike Frame

chinarello or stolen?

About the same price at Merlin, but out of stock. As much as I'm liking the IRC Roadlites, I'll probably try those Schwalbes next.

any tips on setting up a 6800 FD? For the life of me I cannot get it to not rub in the big-big combo. yes, I have the "converter" properly set. My bike has 40.5cm stays which I guess are the minimum shimano suggests, which I think is part of the problem.

big big like, 52-26? If so, the solution is don't crosschain :)

50-28, but yeah. I could do it with my 6700 so I'm convinced with enough setup I can get it to work on 6800 as well.

i love cross chaining.

6800 FD's are REALLY sensitive to cable tension. You may just need to mess around with the barrel adjuster a bunch to get it to be just right. Make adjustments in 1/4 to 1/8 turn increments.

Also: Be sure to double check that the support bolt is not pushing your derailleur out at a funny angle.

use the limit screw all the way in to mimic chain tension and set the bolt with the chain in the crosschain position so it doesn't rub. warning, it will now rub in big/small

i haven't noticed any crazy angle, but the support bolt is not something i've really looked at, I'll take a look tonight.

having it rub in the big/small sounds like a less than ideal situation.

i'm running the braze on derailleur (with a shimano clamp adapter)...am i reading this correctly that I want the back end of the cage angled slightly towards the inside of the bike?

http://si.shimano.com/php/download.p...002-03-ENG.pdf

Ideally you want it perfectly parallel with the small ring. The support bolt is critical. As you tighten it, it swings the cage outward. It only needs to touch the support plate. No tension is required. Also, I second Nutso's cable tension recommendation. It's really important to get all of the slack out.

Or you could just dump it for Di2 and be done with it.

you paying?

I'm unemployed. Maybe some other time :)

I mean, the best way that I've found to set a front derailleur is to max the low limit screw out to keep the derailleur in the big ring position and set the mounting bolt with the chain crossed anyway. I use SRAM though, but when I do this I don't have rub issues on either low or high cogs.

so, i'm planning on getting a pwoermeter and was going to get with stages, but pioneer's offerings intrigue me and would be a similar price range to stages. anyone tried them? does the drive side upgrade kit offer any advantages to a single-leg non drive side meter? similarly, how does the pioneer non-drive side meter compare to the stages?

I can't speak for the Pioneer, only the Stages. You will hear/read/experience a lot of crap from a lot of people about Stages. Take it all, including this, for what it's worth. I don't care about power balance. It's not something I've ever focused on. Single leg is fine by me. My gold standard PM has been SRM for the past few years. I also have a Stages that I use on the cross/gravel/winter/rain bike. I just upgraded that bike significantly, yet I stuck with the Stages. Why? Because it's been close enough to the SRM for me. It is an early unit that had the battery door issue, but Stages stepped up and sent me the later door and all has been fine since. It's gotten plenty wet, with no issues. I don't have two head units to go all DC Rainmaker and compare them side by side, only RPE, but I ride enough and have enough miles in my legs to know that the two power meters are close. The knock against Stages is that they don't reflect high power spikes well, that they lag compared to the SRM. That may be true, but that's not a priority for me. The other nice thing is that the latest SRM PC8 firmware enabled usage tracking, so that I can query the PC8 and it will tell me how many hours are on the Stages battery, as well as general status (new, good, etc.) and battery voltage. Batteries last in the 200 hour range, so this is good to know.

Now with all that said, there has never been a better time to buy a used SRM. You can get really good, clean used units with recent calibrations in the $600-$800 range today. If you were looking at a $500 new Stages versus a $700 used SRM, that's a no brainer. There's a sweet Si 170mm standard on ST right now that is going to make somebody happy.

I know it's silly, but I'm really averse to a wired unit and the idea of a used unit in general kind of worries me, to be honest.

This would be a bigger worry if the company you were buying a used unit from didn't offer good aftermarket support. SRM is awesome with that stuff.

that doesn't really address the wired concerns. and my budget really is pretty tight at <$700.

I'm talking ANT+ wireless, not wired. What crank length and BCD would you be looking for?

compact, 170mm. to be honest though i'm pretty partial to shimano cranks.

I'm poking around where shovel said. Some interesting things for sale there. I eventually want to go to an Ant+ PM. I didn't think SRM would be possible but it might be. And it would be good because my wire on my red bike just died.

CDR, since I know you use Hollowgrams, I picked up an SRM Cannondale Spider last year for $550 - that included almost new Sram Force 11-speed chainrings. And it was the latest version of the SRM too. I found it on Craigslist in California. If you look enough, you're likely to find what you are looking for, it just may take a little back and forth, and a phone call, before you and the seller are comfortable doing a deal online via CL.

Thanks.

I need to sell some stuff first, raise some money to buy stuff.

I'd like to get a wireless SRM, I guess PC7 is realistic.

New Win tunnel video about "fast" shoes. Numbers seem a bit much.

https://youtu.be/NtHdsNxCkjk

I wonder if you can buy just the cover for the laces, I have the Giro Empires and love them, Specialized shoes just don't fit me well.