Nice....

I felt intimidated...

I got mine at Home Depot. Had to order it. It is made by HDX, 20" high velocity floor fan, around $50. 3 speeds, high, higher, highest. The motor is quiet but the fan moves a lot of air so it makes noise. I always wear earbuds on the trainer so no issues. It is a floor fan with a tilting frame but I hang it up in front of the bike at head level. For Z2 stuff it's too much so I use a crappy 20" box fan for those rides.

I'm going anti tech…ultegra. The mighty have fallen.

call me ignorant, but the 5700 (105, 10s) on my cross bike shifts just as nice as the 6700 (ultegra 10s) on my road bike. if i were going to make the jump to 11s it would be 5800 (105).

Is 5800 nicer overall than 6700? What about weight?

I find it interesting that a CAAD 10 Ultegra is the same price as the Super Six Evo 105 - I wonder if buyers cross shop the two. I know I would.

Regarding fans: You can always try to get a used Dyson bladless fan on craigslist or online: I just saw one on Amazon - used for $100 for the small one. They are silent.

I can get 4 components of 6700 for $200 less than 3 components of 7900. My brain would melt if I went all the way back to where I started from on 105.

they're cute!

but they're like having a toddler stand in front of you and blow on you to cool you off.

No.

The Evo is in a different class than the 10.

Duct idea was for me, thinking out loud. I have two rooms in the basement that are essentially all mine. One isn't much to speak of but would be a perfect spot for a remote fan. The second is nicer but extremely cluttered right now, it's where I have the trainer. There's a non-structural wall with two 12"x12" vents in them so I already have a spot for ducting.

i'm not sure whether it is or isn't a design limitation. we know that a 40T works and a 28T is too small. shimano went for even (ratio) steps between cogs (which actually turns out to be pretty nice on the trail) -- but it could be that a slightly smaller cog physically worked but did not work with the new gearing scheme. on 2 different pairs of wheels, the 40T cog is nowhere close to the DS spokes--looks like they could have gone down a few teeth, but i'm guessing people in the 1x11 market want a wider range vs tighter spacing.

it is my understanding that 10s campy cassettes are not interchangeable w/ shimano/sram cassettes. (obv there are no campy MTB cassettes or shifters, but this is a road forum and there is 11s cross-compatiblity, so it is worth noting.)

is this true? i'd tend to doubt an 11s shifter would work properly with a 10s cassette. possibly (via setting the limit screw). i've heard of people doing this, but they use an 11s cassette with 1 cog removed.

i'm a little more confident than 50-50 that this doesn't work.

yes, this should be true. the RD only moves in response to how much cable the shifter pulls.

i think one needs to be careful with that last sentence.

10s MTB wheels can be "upgraded" to 11s by:
* using a shimano 11s MTB cassette, but you're locked into shimano xtr 9000 11-40, for now.
* switching to a sram xd-style freehub (many hub manufacturers make one), but then you're locked into a MTB 10-42 cassette.

sram 11s MTB cassettes work only with hubs with an XD-stye free hub. i'm sure someone will have a counter-example, but every hub i've seen with an xd-freehub also has an available free hub body for 10s (or shimano 11).

[QUOTE=globecanvas;17284019]
10sp road/MTB wheels cannot be upgraded. The SRAM system is designed around a 10T small cog which is too small in diameter to fit on any other existing freehub.
[quote]
it's usually just a matter of swapping free hubs. check it out for, say, the DT 240 (super common). very simple swap....<60 seconds.

yes, limited = 1 option for now, heavy (~330g), expensive at retail.

i'd hesitate to say 'generally' just because it's no longer the MTB standard to use QR9/QR10....in fact it's becoming more the exception than the rule.

cross bikes are starting to change, but it's not a sure bet right now.

many hub manufacturers make end caps to improve compatibility. DT is probably the king here.

sorry to get all technical, but this is a complex area (as you've learned) and the nuances can mean the difference between "aww yeah!" and "aww $h!t!"

you guys don't have a crowd of angels blow on you while riding the trainer during indoor sessions?

some of us do.

I accidently ran a 10s cassette on my ultegra 11 tt bike for a few months. I didn't realize it was ultegra 11 vs. 10.

Anyway, I even raced it that way. I had no real issues except shifting in the 12/11 end was a little sloppy as more cable was let out. Wouldn't recommend it or anything, but it was workable. Maybe helped that I had never used TT shifters before and didn't have any expectation of how they should feel.

Well, I just went from 6700 back to 2nd gen (10-speed) Rival for shifters, brakes, RD. Happy as a clam.

You could probably rig some round duct from home depot with a sheet metal plenum to create a ducted supply fan that would keep the fans in one room and the output in the other.

would likely need to combine a ceiling register box with some round duct, some duct tape and a 20" box fan on high to have it be effective

Tetonrider:

Campy freehubs have a different spline pattern than Shimano or SRAM. Which means you can't put a Campy cassette on a Shimano-splined hub. Or a Shimano/SRAM cassette on a Campy hub.

Campy cassettes have a different spacing than Shimano or SRAM. Which means that you if you stuck a Campy wheel on a bike with Shimano or SRAM shifters, it won't shift properly. Or vice versa.

HOWEVER, Ambrosio makes a cassette that has a Shimano spline with Campy spacing. Meaning you can use your Shimano splined wheels on a Campy bike. The cassettes are a little heavy but they work really well.

Fwiw, I've used a 10sp shimano wheel with 10sp campy everything else, and it was fine.

Had to adjust the shifting (rear der.) a bit but it didn't hold me back!

Were you able to use all 10 cogs? My understanding is that the spacing is close enough that a few cogs will be in alignment, but as you go farther up or down the cog, the small differences add up to the point where the chain can skip.

yes--of course. my comments earlier were for scenarios where one was trying to interchange a wheel with a campy cassette vs shimano/sram.

for 11s it works just fine; for 10s it's not perfect -- but obviously (or maybe not obvious to all) you can't just slap on a campy cassette to a shimano free hub.

some wheels (e.g. zipp) allow the user to swap free hubs pretty easily; others (e.g. shimano wheels) do not.

true for 10s; no longer true for 11s. i've tested and measured, as have others. spacing between cogs is compatible (i'd say it is identical but think it is off by something like 0.02mm). basically now that they've jammed more gears in the same space, the companies have essentially been forced to go to the same intra-cog spacing.

10s "works"...sorta. it's fine in some gears but less fine in others. for me, it's not fine in the sense that i'd choose to interchange 10s campy and shimano but maybe i'd do so if forced (e.g. handed a campy spare in a race), but for 11s it's indistinguishable.

only thing is one *may* have to adjust the llmits for 11s campy/shimano wheel swaps, but that is more about the hub & free hub than the cassettes. in my tests on multiple wheel sets, i did not have to make a single adjustment with limit screws. the shifting should be all good.

It was years ago, but I think so. I raced most of a season and won some races with that setup.

yeah - you had all your gears. IIRC, you left the "less good adjustments" on the top of the cassette, and had great shifting for the 11t-17t.
I'm pretty sure you won ballard as a 3 on that setup, didn't you?

Who is this guy?

when I had my look 695 (campy SR11) I was never happy with my campy free hub on my power tap G3 wheel. It always seem to give me chainslap. I went through 3 free hub and constant cleaning and oiling. I broke down and just got a Shimano free hub for the G3 and an SRAM red22 cassette... bike never shifted better.

i have no knowledge about your G3 hub, but your trouble reminds me of the zipp hubs.

one can swap campy and shimano/sram free hubs very easily on zipp hubs, but the campy freehub setup uses 2 very thin washers and the other uses only 1. they are super thin and can stick to one another.

using the wrong # of washers can cause some binding. the washers are like 1/4mm thick.

again, not sure of the G3 hub as i haven't taken one apart, but your post made me think that it could perhaps have been attributable to some missing small part.

maybe but with the shimano free hub and no other changes it worked perfectly fine with no changes to the actual hub. My third campy free hub was actually not that bad, but if the lube I used was a little bit thick.. it would stick occasionally.

I thought about this a week ago when it was posted, but passed on commenting. But it appears that rkwaki has been unmasked as a closet...















...well-mannered gentleman. At least in the company of ladies. :thumb: