Ballast weight removal system.

I have had two sets of Wiliams clinchers. Havent had a single problem with either, hubs seem to be good and they have stayed true. For the money I think they are great wheels. My wife has a 58/58 set that she trains and races on and they have been bulletproof.

Used Dura-Ace 7800 SRM for $800 incl shipping. Do it?

Is that dual-sided power?

Edit: Oops, it's 7800. That's 10spd chainset: will that work with 11spd cassette?

My 10 speed quarq works fine with 11 speed ultegra

I THINK I've been doing that, but will give it a whirl and see if that resolves the issue. If not, back to Rotor I suppose. Thanks.

Question:

Are there any decent race frames currently made that still use a BSA BB?

I was searching for that yesterday, but focusing on cheap aluminum framesets. Couldn't find any.

mki road | LOW// Bicycles

Interesting. The guy who won our Cat3 crit on Saturday races for them. It's a good looking bike and made in NorCal too.

I'm a fanboy of metal, made in the usa frames which is why they're on my radar. supposedly pretty decent bikes. that being said, i'm on PF30 and have had good luck with the praxis bottom brackets.

The next question is whether I give into 11-speededness or stick it out with 10.

I'd be on that like white on rice.

If cost isn't an issue, I'd go with 11 speed. It's flat where I live and an 11 speed 12-25 cassette is perfect. I was in Tucson a couple of weeks ago and the 11-28 was fine. That extra cog is pretty nice, and the new Shimano hood shape is an improvement over the stuff they had before.

I'm giving in to 11, but only because I want eTap. I'm slowly piecing together a SRAM 22 groupo via ebay for my other bike.
BTW, 22 shifters are holding their value really really well...

Go with 11. The 16 is the gear you have been searching for.

It's not cost so much as interoperability. I built my son's bike with Tiagra (which is a tremendous bang for the buck, btw) and I can swap wheels with him. It also means swapping the hub body on one set of race wheels, but I checked with Williams and that's not as big an issue as I feared.

I guess it's time to go One Louder.

That's nice, but the 18t is nicer. 52-18@90 rpm = 20.2 mph.

Is that for a PC7 compatible SRM? You should do it. Wired or PC6? Probably not? However, if PC6, get a serial number, contact SRM, and ask if it works with PC7. They were very helpful with me, letting me know an SRM I was looking at was PC5, 6, and 7 compatible.

It's not dual sided, it only measures on the right crank. Anything dual sided would be just extrapolating data based on readings on the right side spider.

The 16T is the racing cog that you want.

For training the 18T is sweet, but you'll get the 16T if you're getting the 18T.

Or get Miche or other individual cog cassettes and mix and match. Or buy the cog you want (I think Miche and BBB you can buy individual cogs).

I don't know anything about SRMs specifically, but there is single sided power like stages where one leg's input is completely ignored, spider-based power like quarq where the input of both legs is measured but combined and can't be separated except by interpolation, and true dual sided power like vector where each leg's input is measured separately. I would think SRM is like quarq.

I have a 7800 wirelease SRM, and it works perfectly fine with 11 speed Di2, which I switched over to recently. For $800, that should be wireless. Check the teeth on the chainrings because it is getting harder to find new stock of them at a decent price (I recently got a 53 at Nashbar for $50!!!). You could probably use 7900 rings on it -- the look is different though. Does it include a head unit? CPDiemR mentioned a PC7. I use that and like it. Those can be found for $100-200. Lots of folks use Garmins and love those.

And, ask whether it has been recently serviced by SRM for battery replacement and calibration. With shipping, that can run about $125!! So, $800 can suddenly become $925 :-) Also, the cost for SRM to put a battery in a PC7 is $50. Keep that in mind too. Folks here can guide you on how to do it yourself, but, I've always used SRM for it.

To be clear it measures torqe/power from both the left and right cranks so in that sense it is dual sided. It isn't capable of separating left and right power accurately though.

Or you can just use a Garmin instead of the PC7.

I tried staying away from 11 speed for as long as I could. The 6800 that came on my bike is very nice. I imagine I will notice a difference when I finally get my caad10 built up the rest of the way, which is a 10 speed mix of 105/ultegra