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Racer Tech Thread

Old 06-07-16, 01:49 PM
  #3601  
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Originally Posted by rapwithtom
Thank you @carpediemracing.

I did a bit of research too, but didn't find too much info. I ended buying the Enve 2.0 fork, mostly based on brand. It gets here in a couple of days.

The story: I was driving down a 2 lane highway going about 70 when an on-coming semi passed and blew my bike off of my fork-mounted roof rack.

I think the bike came off because there was a strong sideways component to the force that put all of the pressure initially on just the left fork. The bike was properly attached by the fork mount. The bike was held on the roof by the rear wheel strap. However the fork was damaged: both lawyer tabs were sheared off, and, it's impossible to tell, but I suspect the actual dropouts also suffered damage; hence the need for a new fork.

The bike manufacturer claims that bikes are not waranteed for transport.

A number of folks around here say that they've heard enough similar stories that they never use roof racks. Obviously I'm now in that camp.

I also think that I got off pretty lightly...$400 for a new fork, when the bike could have easily been totaled.
I recall you posting about this.

Re: fork, in a different forum I learned about the end of the 1.0. Apparently the thinner steerer is what made it lighter. The 2.0 was really what worked best all-round.

Not only that there was a ex-Reynolds engineer that piped up. I always thought my Reynolds Ouzo (not their best one) was pretty stiff, but I had no basis for comparison. The engineer guy said that the stiffest fork Reynolds made was the one I have, with the aluminum crown and dropouts. I think someone compared them to some other forks (some lateral movement measurement). It was nice to have my anecdotal thoughts verified.
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Old 06-20-16, 10:17 AM
  #3602  
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Does anyone know of an insulated water bottle with capacity greater than 25 oz? All the ones i've come across (Polar, Camelbak, and Zefal) are limited to 24-25oz. Alternatively, anyone know if there are custom made bottles out there that may be made insulating?
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Old 06-20-16, 07:53 PM
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Originally Posted by echappist
Does anyone know of an insulated water bottle with capacity greater than 25 oz? All the ones i've come across (Polar, Camelbak, and Zefal) are limited to 24-25oz. Alternatively, anyone know if there are custom made bottles out there that may be made insulating?

I use a Elite Nanogelite bottle.. it's 650ml which is about 22oz. It puts polar, camelback and the rest to shame keeping stuff cold. I usually carry one 650ml and 1 500ml nanogelite. Only drawback to them is they can be a pain to keep clean.. rinse them right away especially if you add electrolytes. Well they are kind of pricey too.

25+... I have no idea. hiking types maybe but may not fit bikes

Last edited by spdntrxi; 06-20-16 at 07:58 PM.
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Old 06-28-16, 10:55 AM
  #3604  
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Has anyone had any issues using 10-speed chainrings on an 11-speed system? Lennard Zinn says there should be no problem but was curious if there's been any real-world issues here.
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Old 06-28-16, 10:56 AM
  #3605  
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Havent had any issues on my caad12. 11 speed with 10 speed sram/quarq rings
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Old 06-28-16, 10:57 AM
  #3606  
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I'm looking at buying a used cx frame and although the TT is about 4.5cm larger than my current road bike, the STA is about 2 degrees smaller. I did some math (seat height ~65cm) and figure that (I run a setback post on my road bike but would not on this frame) combined with a 2cm shorter stem and less drop because it's a cx bike would put the bars in just about the right position. Am I missing something here or does this make sense?
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Old 06-28-16, 11:00 AM
  #3607  
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Originally Posted by Wylde06
Havent had any issues on my caad12. 11 speed with 10 speed sram/quarq rings
That's exactly the set-up I have (or will have as soon as the LBS installs the Praxis BB). Thanks.
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Old 06-28-16, 11:09 AM
  #3608  
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Originally Posted by mike868y
I'm looking at buying a used cx frame and although the TT is about 4.5cm larger than my current road bike, the STA is about 2 degrees smaller. I did some math (seat height ~65cm) and figure that (I run a setback post on my road bike but would not on this frame) combined with a 2cm shorter stem and less drop because it's a cx bike would put the bars in just about the right position. Am I missing something here or does this make sense?
That may put the bars in the right position relative to the saddle, but the overall BB-saddle-bars triangle will be rotated forward quite a bit, like a TT fit. In other words the saddle will be too far forward over the BB.

It seems like a useful rule of thumb not to try to compensate for the wrong size frame by moving other stuff around.
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Old 06-28-16, 11:15 AM
  #3609  
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Originally Posted by globecanvas
In other words the saddle will be too far forward over the BB.
based on my math it'll be almost exactly in the same position. i use a setback post on my current bike. if saddle height and setback post stayed the same the smaller STA would put the saddle too far back by about 2.2cm, but if I run a 0 setback post it should put it in just about the same position.
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Old 06-28-16, 11:20 AM
  #3610  
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Originally Posted by mike868y
based on my math it'll be almost exactly in the same position. i use a setback post on my current bike. if saddle height and setback post stayed the same the smaller STA would put the saddle too far back by about 2.2cm, but if I run a 0 setback post it should put it in just about the same position.
Makes sense to me.
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Old 06-28-16, 11:29 AM
  #3611  
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Originally Posted by mike868y
I'm looking at buying a used cx frame and although the TT is about 4.5cm larger than my current road bike, the STA is about 2 degrees smaller. I did some math (seat height ~65cm) and figure that (I run a setback post on my road bike but would not on this frame) combined with a 2cm shorter stem and less drop because it's a cx bike would put the bars in just about the right position. Am I missing something here or does this make sense?
Stack and reach calculator
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Old 06-28-16, 11:32 AM
  #3612  
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Originally Posted by mike868y
based on my math it'll be almost exactly in the same position. i use a setback post on my current bike. if saddle height and setback post stayed the same the smaller STA would put the saddle too far back by about 2.2cm, but if I run a 0 setback post it should put it in just about the same position.
OK, if the seat tube is 2 degrees slacker, with a 62 cm seat tube length (just picking a number), that will put the saddle 2cm further back, which I admit is more than I expected for 2 degrees change. So moving the saddle forward 2cm via a zero setback post will put it back in the original position.

I still seems not ideal though. It's a cross bike so the top tube is somewhere close to level. Can you even stand over a bike that's 4.5 cm bigger? Or is the new frame weirdly long and low, or the old bike short and tall? What length stem are you running now, that you can go 2cm shorter without getting into MTB stem territory?
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Old 06-28-16, 11:36 AM
  #3613  
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BTW a teammate, who is probably about 5'5, rides a way too big CX frame, like maybe a 56, because he really wanted a Richard Sachs and he could only afford a used one and that was all he could find. He is a very good cross racer and he makes it work but I have to say it looks really wrong, and everybody he meets feels the need to comment on it.
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Old 06-28-16, 11:39 AM
  #3614  
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the new bike would be long and low and the TT is sloping (the numbers I'm looking at are effective TT, obviously) and I'd have to run a 70mm stem. wish i could compare it to my current cx bike, but it's not a stock frame and ebay ate the geo chart and the seller can't find it.

i'm probably going to pass. i want a new cx bike (current cx bike sits up very high (is that a big bb drop or a small one?) and corners like a mac truck), but i certainly don't NEED a new cx bike.
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Old 06-28-16, 12:51 PM
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Mikey, FWIW I myself would be very hesitant to buy the bike you're considering, as I think it's too big for me.
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Old 06-28-16, 12:55 PM
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Originally Posted by globecanvas
BTW a teammate, who is probably about 5'5, rides a way too big CX frame, like maybe a 56, because he really wanted a Richard Sachs and he could only afford a used one and that was all he could find. He is a very good cross racer and he makes it work but I have to say it looks really wrong, and everybody he meets feels the need to comment on it.
ugh the things I would do for an RS frame.

Originally Posted by grolby
Mikey, FWIW I myself would be very hesitant to buy the bike you're considering, as I think it's too big for me.
was waiting for you to chime in as I know you know what bike i'm talking about...but yeah, i'm going to pass. i'll keep my eye open for another frame but i'll probably be on the same bike this year. wahhh small people problems.
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Old 06-30-16, 05:35 AM
  #3617  
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The new Dura Ace is an interesting refresh. I applaud them for a lot of their design decisions but it very much feels like they took a bunch of Mountain bike stuff and reworked it to be road stuff. Nothing wrong with that I am just so used to seeing really ****ty direct mount derailleurs from my bike shop days.

Creit to them for their PM design though. Sounds like they figured out a good system for preventing water ingress (Magnetic charging port, unit totally sealed). All in all I wouldn't buy anything from the new group aside from the new battery and ANT+ transmitter so that I can use their new Synchro Shift stuff. Props to them for keeping everything backwards compatible.
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Old 07-05-16, 03:26 AM
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Originally Posted by dz_nuzz
The new Dura Ace is an interesting refresh. I applaud them for a lot of their design decisions but it very much feels like they took a bunch of Mountain bike stuff and reworked it to be road stuff. Nothing wrong with that I am just so used to seeing really ****ty direct mount derailleurs from my bike shop days.

Creit to them for their PM design though. Sounds like they figured out a good system for preventing water ingress (Magnetic charging port, unit totally sealed). All in all I wouldn't buy anything from the new group aside from the new battery and ANT+ transmitter so that I can use their new Synchro Shift stuff. Props to them for keeping everything backwards compatible.
i'm kind of stoked on it because it is not really tempting at all...and given their typical product dev cycles it means another 3 years or so of 11s for shimano.

also, the backwards-compatibility of the firmware updates is pretty shocking given shimano's history. not sure i'll be using sequential shifting on the road, but it is GREAT that they are offering these features when there is little to no technical reason the older parts cannot handle it.
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Old 07-05-16, 05:46 AM
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Originally Posted by tetonrider
i'm kind of stoked on it because it is not really tempting at all...and given their typical product dev cycles it means another 3 years or so of 11s for shimano.

also, the backwards-compatibility of the firmware updates is pretty shocking given shimano's history. not sure i'll be using sequential shifting on the road, but it is GREAT that they are offering these features when there is little to no technical reason the older parts cannot handle it.
would you ditch srm for the shimano PM? doubt i would
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Old 07-05-16, 08:11 AM
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not road bike related, but I mounted some paul mini moto brakes on my cx bike and wow are they powerful. pretty excited.
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Old 07-05-16, 10:36 AM
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How do you guys transport multiple bikes including a TT bike with rear disc? For a single bike I've always just put it in the back seat with the front wheel in the trunk, but adding a second bike poses a problem. I'm considering a tray-style hitch-mount rack to put on my wife's SUV for traveling to stage races, but some of the more popular options (Thule T2 Pro, Kuat NV 2.0) don't work with a disc wheel since they are designed to run a strap through the rim of the rear wheel.

Reading through some discussions on the topic at slowtwitch, some recommend racks that use an arm over broth the front and rear wheels, such as 1up USA or Inno. Others say it's too risky with the disc wheel, put a training wheel on for transport. I guess my question is how much wind is the wheel going to catch at highway speeds if it's mostly sheltered by the SUV? I guess it's worth mentioning my disc is HED Jet+, so we're talking fairing/cover, not solid CF.

The training wheel seems like the safe/obvious option, but would be a PITA: having to bring an extra wheel in addition to race spares for the road bike, plus swapping the wheel and handling the chain, etc. But the biggest hassle is that the Jet+ barely fits my TT frame even with 23mm tires; the wheel has to be perfectly aligned in the horizontal drop-outs to avoid tire-rub when getting out of the saddle, and getting it right can take a bit of trial and error. I'd rather not have to be messing with that right before a TT is about to start if I can avoid it.
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Old 07-05-16, 11:21 AM
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Originally Posted by jsk
How do you guys transport multiple bikes including a TT bike with rear disc?.
I run a 90mm not a disc but my method works either way:

I removed the single side of my folding rear seats to make room for the rear wheels of the two road bikes on the right side. The only thing I remove is the front wheels from those. The TT bike gets the seatpost removed as well. Plenty of room for all 7 loose wheels we had to bring (two full sets for road race chase cars, in addition to the three removed front wheels). The fork mounts are modular in that I just whip out my drill and move the wood screws to where I need them.



I have an '05 Highlander. Big beast. I should have gotten a Sienna but thus is life. I can lay down bikes with a carpet in between but if I'm going with three I get fancy.
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Old 07-05-16, 02:27 PM
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Not sure I'd have room for that approach with an RDX along with hauling other stuff for a weekend trip. Not to mention it's my wife's (new) vehicle and she's already declared no dirty bikes inside.
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Old 07-05-16, 02:28 PM
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Can you just take the wheel cover off for transport?
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Old 07-05-16, 02:37 PM
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Originally Posted by globecanvas
Can you just take the wheel cover off for transport?
It's not a separately purchased cover, it's a HED Jet+ Disc and I don't think it can be removed. I just mentioned that the Jet design is not a solid CF disc, it's a lightweight skin over a AL rim so the cover portion is pretty flimsy and might be more susceptible to high wind.
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