clean with mineral spirits. Once nice and clean apply a few layers of glue to rim before final application

Sorry, I was unclear, yes I mean the tire.

Rims were already cleaned and have 2 layers of glue. Tires will get one coat, then a final wet coat on the rim prior to mounting.

as long as the basetape isn't coming off than you are fine. I would glue as normal than with no worries :)

My bike broke :(

There is very little clearance under the fork for 25mm tires. Going up a steep hill today the front wheel just stopped. A piece of gravel was stuck between the tire and the fork and wouldn't come out. I pulled the wheel to see...

http://i.imgur.com/KMzRDpn.png

^I would look for a local carbon repair fellow and have that fixed. Considering it's in a hidden spot one really doesn't need a "pretty" repair. I would think one could get it done for $50 or so.

I don't know about $50 but that looks very repairable.

The smudges are just schmutz, not scratches. Grumpy McT thinks that was a drain hole that caught a piece of gravel and reamed out, and I think he's right.

Not sure how I'd go about finding a "local carbon repair fellow."

I think they're all local...to California.

Word of mouth? Surely fellow riders/teammates have used someone before.

I have a friend in Jersey who does carbon repair for a pretty good price and does a great job from what I understand: We Repair Carbon Bike Frames | Fix Cracks & Paint Damage

although to be honest, I'd just buy a new fork..that...scares me.

I cleaned it up and I was wrong, the black patch around the hole is bare 3k carbon, sandblasted by crap off the wheel. There's also a decent groove running from the hole to the front of the brake bolt.

I think I'm going to replace the fork. I don't think it would be cost effective to repair, and I don't want to always be wondering if the fork is going to fail. Why screw around with the part of the bike that's most likely to kill me if it breaks.

This one is an Alpha Q, long since discontinued, painted to match the Ti frame, so it's sad to have to replace it with a generic Enve fork, but that's the plan.

Check this thread. Forks for sale.

Elliot Bay Cycles Closing davidson lives - Page 2 - The Paceline Forum

I'm pretty set on purchasing a 2014 Cannondale Evo SuperSix Hi Mod 2 Dura Ace. Seems like dealers are starting to discount this model.

Is there a quicker way to search for dealers that have this model in stock other than through google engine and calling them up?

Not that I know of. Bikes are sold through an independent dealer network.

Well, I have my work cut out for me this weekend.

Sheesh thats a pretty legit hole! Are the tires you are running recommended by the fork manufacturer? Maybe need to downsize or something.

Is everything east of Kansas just one undifferentiated industrial mass to you?

What's Kansas?

Actually the pic just reminded me of seeing cars falling apart (around the wheel wells mostly) from all the salt on the roads in the winter in the Illinois/Indiana/New York area. At least I heard it was the salt, dunno why everything falls apart out there.

Tubular Noob Questions
 

After four years (out of the six since I got into cycling) of riding mostly on 32 spoke Open Pros laced 3X, I got a great deal on a set of Reynolds 66 tubulars. My boss went 11 speed, and these are ten speed, which is fine with me. I need to do some recalibration here! My plan is to use these as race day-only wheels.

Questions:

1) What brake pads do I need?

2) I have yet to ride these wheels. The tires are Tufo S33 in 700x21. What ballpark pressure should I try with these? I weigh about 180.

3) I've been pretty pleased with Michelin Pro4 Endurance tires. Is there a tubular with about the same characteristics? I'm willing to give up some longevity and toughness since this will be a race-only tire, I just don't want something that will flat at the least excuse and wear out in a couple of crits; a season of racing, including on some crummy surfaces, is what I'm looking for.

1) The OEM pad for those wheels is the Reynolds Cryo Blue. Until very recently that is all I have used on all of my carbon wheels and IMO they are excellent. I switched to Kool Stop Black Prince because I went to 2013 Zipp Firecrest and friends told me they work better.

2) The Tufo S33 is a bargain race tire. Heavy core, hard rubber, long lasting. Not particularly good riding or handling. Not good in the rain. This is based on my own experience. I am 145lb. and I ran them 110/100.

3) Michelin is not known for their tubulars. In general clinchers that have corresponding tubulars, the tubulars aren't best in class. Tubulars range from training tires like the Vittoria Rally to exotics like FMB. In the middle there are a couple of classes. With butyl tubes, the Continental Sprinter is one of the best, with the Vittoria Corsa Elite right there as well. With latex tubes, the Vitoria Corsa CX is pretty much the standard. Stepping up a notch are the Veloflex Criterium and Carbon.

I used SwissStop yellow with my DV46s initially (tubular at first in 2005, then got DV46 clinchers as well maybe 2007?). I ran KoolStop black pads on them after giving up on the yellows. I just left the black pads on after some ride and realized they're fine on both aluminum and carbon. My DV46 tubulars are under a friend and teammate, my DV46 clinchers are under a different friend/teammate. I'm mainly a fair weather rider and the black pads, not meant for rain, were terrible in the wet. However in the dry they were really good. I actually panicked once when I went down a steep descent in the rain (Double Peak in San Marcos or some town in that area) on aluminum rims after riding the carbons regularly for a while, the brakes didn't work as well as they did on the carbon rims.

No idea on the TUFO tires.

I use the Corsa CXs, pretty much, and I run them at 120/120, 115/120, down to 110/115, give or take. It depends on my mood. Less cornering and more out of saddle stuff = higher pressures. Bethel, New Britain, both no corners to speak of and both with a short out of saddle effort, they get 120/120. Latex tubes. When I ran 90/100 psi in them I almost hit the curb when cornering hard, and I wasn't on a line to be that close to the curb (I was lucky no one crashed because of me - first lap and last lap of the 2010 Tour of Somerville). I prefer a tire with more pressure, for whatever reason.

When I used Conti Sprinters I thought the tire felt squishy out of the saddle on a short steep hill (Bethel) until I put about 130-140 psi in them. Butyl tubes in that.

With the DV46s, the tires, etc, I ranged from 180 at best to a more normal 190-210 lbs - I was fat, and not phat.

FYI my understanding is that Michelin bought part ownership of the Thailand plant that cranks out the Vittorias, Specialized, Bontragers, and other tires. That factory does tubulars well. Michelin bought the factory interest (I heard it was 20%) initially to control tire production stuff (they brought their machines from France to the factory and they have their own section of the factory) but it also gave them a way to make tubulars. I expected them to be selling tubulars much earlier than they did but now I have such a stock of tires that I won't be buying tires for a bit. I even have a set of the new Pro 4 Endurances but haven't had an excuse to put them on wheels.

Friend giving me a Tarmac SL4 Pro (not s-works) frame to build up, but wondering about getting my Campy Chorus UT cranks on it..

Cranks were on a Raleigh with bb30, and adapter cups (68x42mm size).

From poking around online there may or may not be issues using those in the SL4 pro bb.. from this it seems like it will work but only if the frame is Alloy OSBB instead of Carbon OSBB.

Anyone have expertise here?

No expertise, but check Praxis Works. I believe they have a conversion BB that will work for you.

Re tubulars, anybody try the Schwalbe One HT?