TKP, I have friend who was complaining about that issue on his older version S-Works Venge. I don't know how or if he solved it.

thanks y'all. I'll try some stuff.

My coach's solution is to buy a thompson. I think he may be the most right ;)

Have this issue on 4 Specialized bikes (2 Venge, 2 Shiv) and a Ritchey round post. I do not like and will not buy any slipping saddle setup anymore. I want 2 bolts. The Ritchey was torqued to spec and support at Nats pushed the kid and tilted the seat 10% - made his ride not so fun.

The Specialized have, as you mentioned similar issues. Just with the Venge (and Shiv) you really have no choice.

I clean them off, do some carbon post compound and torque till the tool almost breaks.

I feel your pain.

I guess your son and I are fat :(

I torqued the crap out of the bolt a few nights ago and it seems to be holding up OK on the trainer at least. We'll see what happens riding outdoors!

My secret weapon with my Venge post was Park Super Grip compound (Think it was SG-1, lol at that reference). When I used that I was unable to adjust the angle without prying the cups out and cleaning the interface.

I need a climbing bike, and I can get a good deal on BMC (new team sponsor). The SLR01 (Ultegra Di2) is a little on the pricey side, even with the big discount...but the SLR02 (Ultegra Di2) is affordable. Worth it? My Scott Foil clocks in around 17.7lbs. I'm looking for something lighter and with better gearing for climbing (I have a 53/39 SRM on the Foil, so it's not exactly easy to go do a compact set).

Thoughts? Would the SLR02 do what I want? When I look at specs on weight, it seems to come in around 17.7lbs, but that might be with the not-awesome stock wheels.

Quite a few local guys have had the SLR01. Allegedly, they're quite fragile and most everyone I know with one has had it repaired. Cracks have come via surfing the top tube down a descent, getting some gravel kicked up into the down tube, and other minor things. One of the local elite teams jokingly refer to a local repair shop as a sponsor due to the need for frequent repairs.

Is a climbing bike necessary? Looking at numbers for myself, I'd be saving very little in total weight. Me and bike weigh in at around 196 (180 for me and 16 for the bike). If I were to drop down to an ultralight climbers bike that'd move the number 194. About 1% relative difference. It seems you'd have to be moving from a hefty bike to a featherweight to attain some significant difference.

Ultegra Di2 is relatively chunky, don't get me wrong, I love it and used it on my main / only bike for a year (And even did pretty well in a hillclimb on it). But my take is that if you are going to do a climbing bike you either want SRAM or Dura-Ace. From memory Ultegra Di2 is about a pound heavier than Ultegra mechanical and even that is a fair bit heavier than SRAM Force.

That's really good to know. I LOOOVE Di2, but weight matters on this bike, and I'd be willing to go back to mechanical. DuraAce would be too $$.

force is pretty solid weight per $$

Most likely.

I get my kid's bikes normally under 14# by a few things that are not super expensive. Goal is to get his MASI into the high 12# which will depend a bit on wheel choice. That will be with DA 9000 Di2 - most likely.

Gram mass are the rough savings we see on each bike.
-Lighter seat - 100g
-Lighter seat post - 100g
-Lighter wheels / tires - 500g
-Alloy Cassette - 100g
-Lighter skewers - 50g
-Lighter bar/stem - 100g
-Switching out cable housing system - Power Cordz. - 50g


Then those super non-aero brakes - 100g

14 lbs bike not super expensive?

13 lbs bike with di2?

jesus christ.

If mechanical ultegra is lighter than Di2, I could possibly make the SLR01 work...which would probably be more optimal.

...hmm. This might be possible.

Also for some reason, the 54cm frame is significantly cheaper for me than the 56. I wonder if I could race comfortably on a 54...

I use a 100mm stem on my Foil (and the stem isn't slammed). So maybe a 120mm on a 54 SLR?

there's a 2 cm difference in head tube. I've always thought that with more spacers, the fork stiffness goes down.

If you said you ran a 100mm stem and it was slammed, then yeah, I'd say go for it on a 54. But given you are already running spacers on the 56, the 54 headtube may be too short.

6' on a 54. http://i.imgur.com/1xiAwFh.jpg

A "Stock" issue Tarmac Pro was under 15# and we had to add weights.
It is pretty easy to take another 2 off working with that list.

With these heavier wheels the 8 year old was on a <14# bike that I eBayed together for around $1,500 (yea it was small). I later cut another pound off for $300 with cables.

Borrowed RZR wheels took it to 12# something, but those are not cheap.
Attachment 546335


Getting a bike Heavy enough can be a real pain.
Attachment 546332
Attachment 546334

15 year old picture?

As arm/leg proportions are different by person, then If the fit is right now on a 56 going to a 54 would add spacers. As it is a climbing bike the position may be even more upright.

teammachine SLR01 Ultegra ? Road ? BMC Switzerland

I guess it depends on geometry. The top tube is 10mm shorter from 56 to 54cm, but the seat tube is 20mm shorter; reach is only 5mm different.

Also, comparing SLR01 geometry to Scott Foil:

https://www.scott-sports.com/us/en/p...T-Foil-10-Bike

Well, he's pretty compact. Good cda, I bet.

This seems like one of those "find X things wrong with this picture" puzzles. Toe clips and boas? That's a neutral service bike I assume.

If I recall, he grabbed it from a kid on the side of the road after smashing his own bike in a crash.

ETA: http://www.velonation.com/News/ID/49...kids-bike.aspx

Which by today's rules - illegal, but they do not seem to enforce that rule.

Looks like it was a neutral bike from an earlier Jr race. Not sure where that falls in the realm of the rules.