Sounds like the solution is to ride without one part at a time, over and over until it stops. Lol. Also, I'm pretty sure I never touch the saddle clipping in or out. Like at the start of a crit, clip in, sprint up to speed, sit down.

Front derailleur cable end hitting the crank arm? Happens to me all the time

i sometimes forget the BF way is to just spew out tons of small posts in quick succession.

yeah, did that when i was testing the new QRs. switching the wheels entirely was faster than taking out the QRs and putting them back in.

pretty much. thats what it would take for me to finally narrow it down the the pedals.

go take off your saddle and bike around for a bit. i was surprised myself.

di2, so no cable really. closest thing that could hit would be the FD cage, but theres tons of clearance there.

Is it a press fit BB?

stock cervelo s5 BB, says "BBright" on it which appears to be press fit according to google

Try installing a new set of BB bearings. What you are describing sounds like when the BB30 on my backup bike died from a winter of riding. I could have sworn it was the pedals, turned out I just needed a new BB in there.

Edit: Don't forget: Grease is your friend. Lots of it.

I agree, it sounds like the infamous pressed-in bearing creak.

Some people find success using grease, but I have found the only really good solution is Loctite bearing retention compound. And it's not just a matter of applying the compound, but applying the compounds, pressing in the bearings, then leaving the press on there for about 24 hours so everything cures nice and snug.

If the bearings were installed by a professional it is going to take a hair dryer or some other low grade form of heat to break the bond.

To be specific you want Loctite 680 or one of a few other industrial alternatives you aren't likely to find. I'll save you some time by suggesting picking one of the industrial suppliers on ebay that hand bottle (20ml for home use) out of a bulk container. Or just take it to a decent shop who probably took the same route I suggested.

FWIW, I work in a LBS and our go-to recommendation to fix creaking BB30s is either a Praxis or Wheels Mfg. conversion. The very concept of BB30 sucks balls.

I have a Wheels Mfg. converter. It helps, but it's not perfect.

Heavy grease all over the place. Pretend you're applying sun screen on a manatee.

Did you know that manatees adjust their buoyancy by farting?

Oh man, that's hilarious!

Yeah, a real gas.

<groan>

remember when you were in the market and i told you "i had a wheels mfg and it started creaking and now I have a praxis and it's perfect" and you got a wheels mfg anyway?

I also heard from people who said the Wheels Mfg. adaptor worked perfectly for them, and it was cheaper.

On a different topic: Just picked up a Quarq DFour spider, as much as powermeters are a thing that are nearly impossible to really review for accuracy outside of lab testing I am happy to report that the unit has an unusually stable zero offset. Post-chainring install it read 5, post 10 miles it read -40, post 90 it read -49 and over the past few rides it has been between -49 and -45. Also, the new Qalvin BLE app is both more dependable and gives you a real-time torque reading from the unit.

If the calibration numbers are anything to go by the new units seem to deal significantly better with temperature swings. Lets just hope that weather sealing is up to snuff unlike the Elsa RS units (Of which I am now sending back ANOTHER one)

did you check the calibration out of the box? how did it match the factory setting?

good to hear that Quarq ZO might be getting more stable (though it's hard to draw any conclusions from just one unit; they've always had some units prove more reliable than others). please do report back after you've had it through some big temp swings and true foul weather. fingers crossed.

This is why I gave up on Quarq and went to SRM. I got tired of sending them back in for warranty repairs.

I can definitely understand the frustration. I am okay with playing the game though. If it breaks I have a new one, for free, in a week. Sometimes they even give you a free upgrade. Meh ¯\_(ツ)_/¯

Hohoho, well I guess we can complain about SRAM all we want, but I just found myself upgraded to a DFour (Another one)! They still get my loyalty ;)

This new Wahoo Bolt looks like it might finally be a Garmin Edge killer.

Indeed. I'm almost willing my 520 to die so I can get one.

My 510 destroyed itself about a week out of warranty last year (deleting my file of Elite Crit Nats in the process. UGH!) and I swore to the Garmin person I was going to buy a Cycleops GPS instead because of how crappy Garmin products and their warranties were. But alas, the Cycleops screens and everything sucked so much, and the Element was like 80 bucks more than what I could get the 520 for, so I caved, loathing myself for my needing certain data fields arranged in a certain way to feel like a real bike rider.

And now the Bolt has arrived, with an additional (claimed) 1 watt aero savings to boot! Oh happy day!

When my Garmin finally crapped out, I just went with SRM. (I'm noticing a trend in my responses.) I like how huge the PC8 screen is. Of course, it's been compared to having an iPad out front, but it's clear and easy to read.

Bought a NWB Forerunner 305 for $25 last year instead of a SRM/PC8. User replaceable USB rechargeable PM battery not materializing was highly disappointing. PC8 at release, I see a large firmware update recently got released, was inconsistent enough to decide me it was worth waiting out the very fluid PM/head unit market. Without power I saw no need to fight the typical Garmin woes when the one rock solid option still outputs a usable file.

I take it you are reasonably happy with your SRM + PC8, topflightbro? More asking about the GPS and other changes that took place in the PC8.