It already has some on it - should I add more?

I guess I'll know if it starts leaking.. but just getting it to hold any air would be a big improvement.

no, I mean at the tube to extender and then at the extender to the valve stem. the presta valve should still work to keep the air inside.

It is a good idea to gently hold the valve with pliers so the tube isn't dealing with the torque. It isn't essential, but a good idea.
I have not had leak problems when I properly tightened the valves, so I don't Teflon tape the threads.

Teflon tape is way thinner than electrical tape and can slide through most rim valve step holes and keep the rattle away.

Attachment 552762

Something sounds wrong.

Anyone buy a PowerTap GS at $299 via PowerTap's website and get one?

Their website still lists them but everywhere else has them at $500+.
I'd love to buy one via Amazon since I have a boatload of point, but I'm not paying $500+ when it's on the powertap site for $299.

I have three road bikes I ride, two of which have exposed shift cables while the other has internally run cables. The two with exposed shift cables shift cleanly and the cables last quite a while. My Ridley Fenix with enclosed cables shifts okay most of the time...until the cable liners get crud inside them and the cables corrode, requiring replacement every 1-1.5k miles. The issue appears to be the liners, which came with the frameset. Any recommendations for replacement or a workaround? Thanks!

Di2/eTap? :lol:

sell it.

Well this sucked. Lucky not to fall over in the middle of an interval. Then a 6 mile one legged drill which made my back hurt.


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Speedplay.

suck

Ouch.

I'm putting a new stem on my bike - I am OCD and need stems and bars to match.

The current stem I am running is a +-6. The new stem comes in either a +-10 or +-0. Right now, I have a 20mm spacer under the -6 stem.

So, do I got with a -10, and then maybe add another 10mm of spacers under the stem. Or do I got with a 0 and subtract 10mm of spacer.

I know fewer spacers is better, but a 0 degree stem also looks weird.

IMO, more spacers look weirder. I'd go with the -0 stem. But then, none of my bars and stems match.

Had that happen in a road race once with the right side garmin Vector2s pedal :(. Jumped off and threaded it back in as quick as I could, but that was the end of my day...

Anyone have any experience with the Jagwire link housing? Thinking about getting some and having the LBS install it before spring hits

No, not Jagwire.

However I've been using Nokons for forever, probably 8? years. Great stuff. Able to make sharp curves easily, no flex once you have it dialed in (there's an initial "snuggling in" period where the segments get closer together, you can do this on the stand before riding the bike), super ultra low resistance (1.1 mm gear cable + White Lightning + Nokon's liner = "Crap, I forgot to put the cable in... oh, wait, it's in there."). Never replaced a liner although I've put new liner on when I moved parts from one frame to another.

I got the blue stuff in 2011, also one set of black. Silver and other set of black in 2008. The earlier stuff chipped/corroded, the later stuff is better.
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Sprinter della Casa: Equipment - Nokons

Happened to a dura ace pedal of mine a few years ago except I was clipping out and doing so flung it into a snowbank and I never found it :(

A spider has been up on facebook for a few weeks now...he is down to 475...its tempting



Im not familiar with SRM, what does the PM6 on the back refer to?

PM6 refers to the version of of SRM. PM7 is the most recent. PM6 is last generation. I believe PM6 was the first wireless one.

And IIRC, Teton told me I was perfectly OK buying a PM6 or PM7.

FWIW, I've got a PM6 on a Red crankset and have been happy with it.

Speaking of SRMs, any good tips on setting up a wired one? Mine will be arriving tomorrow. Already checked the manual so I have a good idea of what to do. Was mostly thinking of how people route the wires and any other little tricks someone might have.

Found crack in seat tube of wife's R3. Mer mer mer.

Gifted her my soloist while we straighten it out so I'm racing on the Emonda ALR. Just threw some aero wheels on but it's got 5800 and round bars which I'm not a fan of.

In other news, 6870 is pretty much equal to 5800 in terms of weight, which is surprising. Once I swap to aero drops I'm likely swapping the di2 over simply because the shift cable situation sucks. So much wind being seen.

I use the high-end 3m electrical tape to keep it stuck on the underside of the downtube, and then bring it around and shrink wrap it to brake cables where they come around the head tube.
I put one or two pieces sideways at the bottom and top of the long downtube, given the grit and small movement of the cables, even nice tape loosens.

Make sure you clean the areas really well w/ a solvent/alcohol first, it'll help the tape adhere better.
If you can get an extra set of hands to help, it's ideal to do the downtube run with a continuous strip of tape, but getting it straight, without touching tape-to-tape is quite a bit easier with a bit of help.

it's worked fine on several bikes for me, I'm open to other improvements if anyone else has them?

Yes. I bought 5. That was several months ago / Aug time frame. They are all in wheels now.