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So I have a SRAM Force 22 Yaw crankset. It appears to be a newer model.
Can I just swap out the spider for a Quarq DZero spider? Or do I have to buy a whole Quarq crankset? Buying just a spider is much preferred as finding a Quarq with 165mm arms is difficult and/or spendy... |
If it uses 8 torx bits to attach the arm: Yes
If it uses 3 torx bits to attach the arm: No |
Originally Posted by dz_nuzz
(Post 19693644)
If it uses 8 torx bits to attach the arm: Yes
If it uses 3 torx bits to attach the arm: No Thanks for the concise answer. I've looked around but couldn't find anything that said that in explicit terms. |
You might try looking around for a Quarq Riken or Elsa spider (Not Elsa RS, those are all 8 bolt units). I wouldn't be surprised if you can't find em for relatively cheap.
One advantage of Quarq going to this newer bolt pattern though is that I think they did it to improve their ability to offer different arm lengths. Might not be fun having to buy a whole new unit, but IIRC they are selling 165mm Quarqs now. |
Bummer about the sprint shifters. I'll look around for some other hack. What about the climbing shifters? Do those plug into the shifters or straing into the junction box. Should be fairly straightforward to hook up some sprint shifters and solder them into the connection on the climbing shifter.
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I saw a guy selling a Sram SRM on OnlineSwapMeet on FB. That uses the 3-bolt pattern.
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A few months ago, there was a discussion about crank length. I think Aaron was looking to go to shorter cranks.
Anyway, there is an interesting discussion on the impact of crank length on cadence and torque in the Track forum: http://www.bikeforums.net/track-cycl...ng-200s-2.html |
Originally Posted by topflightpro
(Post 19695208)
A few months ago, there was a discussion about crank length. I think Aaron was looking to go to shorter cranks.
Anyway, there is an interesting discussion on the impact of crank length on cadence and torque in the Track forum: http://www.bikeforums.net/track-cycl...ng-200s-2.html |
Originally Posted by mike868y
(Post 17779955)
doge's said some ridiculous stuff, but claiming that is 140# kid puts out more power than cav may take the cake.
... No surprise here for those that look at the data. Such is the "problem" using power meters. "The tests do, however, provide a surprising shared bond with Cavendish. 'Body-wise, if you look at numbers, apart from the sprint test, I'm really, really pathetic,' he says. 'The year I was world champion for the first time [2005], I wouldn't have qualified for the under-16 programme on the lab tests.'" https://www.theguardian.com/sport/20...tour-de-france |
Sorry for the 41ish flavor - but it isn't...
For collegiate racing/training team bikes should I buy 105 at 60% the cost of Ultegra? I think so. I have little experience outside the Dura-Ace stuff, and that is price prohibitive. I am getting the USAFA team some parts to build out 5 bikes (alloy frames) for racing. These are team loaner bikes. Most of these racers will be starting racers, but think fit 17-22 year olds training 10 hours/week and racing. Bikes will weight ~17lbs. Most will be used as collegiate C and some B races. Then for me - off topic - definitely 41 stuff, but feel free to toss in an opinion: A non-racer - strong, heavy guy that likes precision. I'm leaning Ultegra for me. |
105 for beginner racers is totally fine. It is solid mechanically, it's just heavier.
IMO Ultegra is all anyone ever needs. I'd go with that for yourself. If you are looking to dump a lot of $ go DuraAce di2! |
Originally Posted by Doge
(Post 19739337)
Sorry for the 41ish flavor - but it isn't...
For collegiate racing/training team bikes should I buy 105 at 60% the cost of Ultegra? I think so. I have little experience outside the Dura-Ace stuff, and that is price prohibitive. I am getting the USAFA team some parts to build out 5 bikes (alloy frames) for racing. These are team loaner bikes. Most of these racers will be starting racers, but think fit 17-22 year olds training 10 hours/week and racing. Bikes will weight ~17lbs. Most will be used as collegiate C and some B races. Then for me - off topic - definitely 41 stuff, but feel free to toss in an opinion: A non-racer - strong, heavy guy that likes precision. I'm leaning Ultegra for me. |
Originally Posted by Ttoc6
(Post 19739898)
Raced many years on 105 (10sp), went up to campy EPS(11 sp choruse), downgraded back to Ultegra (11s) this year. Realistically, I've noticed a big step from 105 to ultegra, but I think that came in the form of 10-11sp upgrades. For a budget racer, 105 and some mechanical knowledge is enough.
Originally Posted by TheKillerPenguin
(Post 19739766)
105 for beginner racers is totally fine. It is solid mechanically, it's just heavier.
IMO Ultegra is all anyone ever needs. I'd go with that for yourself. If you are looking to dump a lot of $ go DuraAce di2! I own 4 DA Di2 sets... and all the buttons. My wife rides gen one 10-speed hand-me down from my 12 year old. The rest are on the kid's bikes. I'll use cables and go with the Ultegra advice for me - 105 for the team. Order was placed. |
I'm looking for a TT left lever that has the slot so a cable can be removed without removing it from the brake.
Any brand that fits? |
Originally Posted by Doge
(Post 19755421)
I'm looking for a TT left lever that has the slot so a cable can be removed without removing it from the brake.
Any brand that fits? Otherwise, I got nothin. |
Originally Posted by Harlan
(Post 19755774)
You trying to swap from road to TT setups? If you have external cables, couplers for travel bikes work.
Otherwise, I got nothin. Road bars for Collegiate TT. Then TT bars - for TT... They try to make rules to make it simpler. It just does not work out that way. I expect the couplers won't work for the rear brake. |
Originally Posted by Doge
(Post 19755839)
Yes.
Road bars for Collegiate TT. Then TT bars - for TT... They try to make rules to make it simpler. It just does not work out that way. I expect the couplers won't work for the rear brake. |
Originally Posted by Harlan
(Post 19756022)
I really wanted to make the same situation work with Di2 since I have an internally routed rear brake cable. Best I could come up with is solder the rear brake cable end so you can fish it through without fraying it. It won't be that fast a swap. If you've got externally routed cable, so much easier. You could even take both brakes with housing off the bike and swap the whole assembly.
The report was several kids were doing TTs with fake rear brake hook-ups. That is not my plan, but the rear is an internal routing. I may just flip cables. Although I like fancy cables, I may give and go steel here. |
what's the comparison like for garmin 520 vs 500?
Basically, I feel like the features I'm after on the 520 might not justify the cost. I'm on the fence about this. So I'm looking for feedback on basically 2 things on the 520. 1. how good is the mapping function? all i want is to be able to upload a route, and see my power on the same screen. the garmin 500 map kind of sucks, especially in anywhere other than the highway. And I can't see my power, which is disappointing. I can see myself using it quite a bit if I were to explore new areas, and want to train at the same time. Right now, I just go off of familiar routes, which can get stale after a while. 2. how accurate/useful is the ftp and vo2 estimation after each ride? I think golden cheetah should be able to figure this out for free, if I so desired. But is there an advantage to having a 520 do that for you? |
I can't speak to the mapping question, but the FTP and VO2 max estimates are only done when there's a bump upwards. The VO2 max estimate, IMHO, is kinda like max HR - nice to know but not really useful. I have no idea how accurate it is.
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520 display is cleaner. I never use the map, it's not really helpful (for me anyway) and apparently drains battery really quickly when in use. FTP and vo2 estimate will be bunk I am sure.
If those 2 things are the only reasons you're considering a 520 I'd stick with a 500. |
The UCI pro choice is the 510. Every single person I know who owns one hates it because they are of a mind the automatic uploads and a few other awkward features should work as advertised. I'd have the 510 over a 500 for the reasons implied in my first statement.
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Ummm, the pros are running 520s. And the auto upload on my 520 works swimmingly.
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I got the hand-me-down 500, kid has the 520. I really like the Live Connect feature on the 520. Not so much now he is "an adult" and 1,300 miles away. There are many ways to track, that is just nice seeing the speed/power in real time from 1,300miles away is fun for those living vicariously through others. Then it just uploads well.
The 520 has buttons in the rear. Y'all already know I'm nuts about this stuff. That means it needs a bit of space behind it. For the TT setups I like to butt the device to the front of the bar to keep the air from getting behind. The 520 is less than ideal for this. |
Originally Posted by revchuck
(Post 19758491)
Ummm, the pros are running 520s. And the auto upload on my 520 works swimmingly.
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