Well, that would depend greatly upon the dimensions of the bike.

or more specifically, the chainstay length.

i rode a 39x32 for catskills a couple years ago and bought a 120 link chain to be safe. i also had to use a SRAM wifli derailleur since the regular medium cage derailleur has a 28t limit (i think).

And RD cage length and hanger length. And these days - pulley teeth.
But 114 sounds like enough .

I do have a couple single front rings in the mail, one comes today. I going to see if junior likes a 1X11 for hill climbing. I like the chain angle better too.

Anyone running tubeless for road? I'm picking up a newer HED wheelset that's tubeless compatible. Currently happy with latex tubes.

someone give me an opinion on age/miles on carbon frames. Do they really become more flexy (and I just haven't noticed?)

I don't believe so.

I think that was a myth when carbon was first being used in bicycles many years ago. If it had such a short lifespan, I doubt they'd be making cars, boats, and airplanes out of it.

I had a 2006 Giant TCR Team Advanced. Sold it to a friend who still rides it. 11 years later I don't think there's any discernable difference.

Much too complicated to answer without some research into the exact frame construction. Take steel for instance. The chemical composition of tubing used in a bike made in 1950 is nowhere near that of one made this year. Which is basically how far carbon development has come. Even figuring you are talking about a bike made in the last 5 years of carbon from one of the two companies all production frames use. Every single bike model has a different lay up schedule.

Short and easy answer is fully curing over time and being subjected to lots of normal use actually makes bikes made of newer carbon composites stronger and more resilient. UV and impacts make it more brittle.

I've worn out three steel frames in the last 10 years and my carbon bike is just getting broken in. If this was angling for reason to buy a new un-raced on bike your reasoning should be it needs to be strong enough to hold a trailer connection and stop on steep slopes safely. So a disc endurance race bike for someone your size easily qualifies on all counts.

they changed the design on the romin evo saddle for 2016. looks like new cover and the nose is slightly shorter. anyone else have details on exactly what they all changed?

I have a pair of Easton EA90s I run with Schwalbe ones. Had one puncture on a training ride. Once pressure dropped to 40-50 lbs it sealed. I then topped it off with co2 and it's been solid ever since.

I don't run those very often as they were originally for racing and then I built up a carbon pair of wheels this season, but I only paid like 250 bucks plus 70 for the tires and they seem pretty light/stiff/quick for the price. The tires are pretty well rated in regards to crr.

I've got a set of Ardennes + wheels that I first set up tubeless with S-Works Turbo Tubeless tires. I liked them when I was riding them, but then I messed up the sidewall of one of the tires and went to take it off and found I couldn't, the bead was locked so firmly into the rim. Part of that was due to my 65-year-old stick figure arms, but they were tight! I've since used Michelin Pro4 Endurance, S-Works Turbo clinchers and Roubaix Pro clinchers with no issues. I haven't tried other tubeless tires yet, so I don't know if it was that particular combination or just the way these rims work with tubeless tires.

Don't think so. Some say if the CF is exposed it can absorb stuff.
I have very old CF stuff - wheels. They are the same today. Other stuff exploded (wheels again) due to impact, but before they did - they were stiff. That was under regular hours+ 600W use on Mexican roads (tandem with a gorilla stoker and fit me at 200#).
Frames, Daniel did fatigue/crack one. He is really sensitive to the smallest things and I didn't hear a thing about it. I discovered the crack.

Last time I ran tubeless it was Bontrager. I got a seashell through the tread, huge gash. You have to remove the rim strip on the side of the road in order to put in a new tube. That sucks. CRR is measured to be the best with tubeless right? Although I recall there not being latex tubes in that test.

Did you pop the bead off the rim shelf into the center of the rim (all the way around)? That's the only way it'll come off. Sometimes you have to just put the wheel down on the ground and push/pull the bead down. I learned that one mountain biking. Sounds like an awesome setup for racing. I'm going with the Jet 6 +.

Yesterday I found out "Michelin Power" is the next iteration of "Michelin Pro" across the board. So just an update with revised rubber compound.

Yup I have had pre-2016 Evos and now have two post-2016 Evos (One Pro one S-Works). My take is that they are a little "flatter" and the nose has a bit more of a prominent channel. I really like them and have used Romin Evos since they were released.

Another thing they did was add the receptacles to be able to mount a behind the saddle water bottle or the Specialized Road Bandit (Sort of like an integrated bolt-on minimalist saddlebag).

Not a thing.

anyone running 1x for crits? i purchased an emonda alr pro to use as a crit bike and honestly dont see the point in having a front derailleur or inner ring. just excess weight. i was planning on using a 50t with a 12/25 in the back

The pros and cons are pretty simple ... pro is simplicity, con is that you've restricted the usefulness of the bike. Weight savings is not really a pro, as it's maybe 100g and by definition you won't be using the bike for climbing.

im estimating a little closer to 200g, so we are closing in on the half pound territory. i dont have a ton of crit experience (non actually, im crossing over from the mtb world) so i was just looking for perspectives on it. i have other bikes to use on the road and what not, so im not too concerned about limiting the bike to flat type stuff

why 50/12 as your top gear for a crit?

lol im not sure, the bike has a 50t on it already and i figured a 12/25 would be close gearing and help me get into a good cadence. is a bigger front ring than a 50 something most people use?

Where I live, it's rare that I ever shift out of the big ring in a crit. But, there have been events that featured a hill that necessitated the small ring, especially late in the race when we are starting to get tired.

The only thing I'd say is 50x11-25 would be more suitable. That would be fine for any crit I've ever done including Crybaby Hill, probably any crit in the country except maybe super extremes like Cat's Hill (which I haven't done, but it looks like a small ring hill in photos). You're basically locked into 50T for a single ring crit application, because you can't get smaller than 11T on the cassette and you need to be able to sprint, and you can't get bigger than 28T without crappy shifting and you need to be able to get up at least a little bump in the road.

The weight is really a non issue though, even if it were a pound, you're not using the bike in any situation where weight matters at all. I wouldn't put weight savings in the pro/con list at all.

A local guy rides one of those 1x Allez Sprints and it sure looks hot.