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Originally Posted by tetonrider
(Post 17409673)
wouldn't that be 5T? i've heard of 3T and TTT before it, but 3TTT is new to me. :)
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Originally Posted by shovelhd
(Post 17409690)
In the old days, the 3T bars were stamped 3ttt.
"3T, originally known as TTT, was founded by Mario Dedioniggi in 1961 in Torino." |
We used to refer to them as triple T. At some point while I was fat and lazy it became three T.
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Originally Posted by wens
(Post 17408829)
Does anybody make classic bend (or at least not compact) 38 cm bars?
Zipp Service Course SL-70 Ergo Handlebar | Competitive Cyclist |
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Originally Posted by wens
(Post 17408829)
Does anybody make classic bend (or at least not compact) 38 cm bars?
Avenir - Classico Road Handlebars, 380mm, Black I run them on my track bike and in my experience they work fine. |
Originally Posted by ips0803
(Post 17417625)
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Agreed. Those are compact bars.
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Fair enough, the shape is more round than what I think of with compact but agree the dimensions are compact
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Compact doesnt have to be ergo. Ergo is not round.
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Originally Posted by wens
(Post 17408829)
Does anybody make classic bend (or at least not compact) 38 cm bars?
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Originally Posted by carpediemracing
(Post 17419810)
You looking for a more-than-12-cm-drop and more-than-7-cm-reach kind of bar?
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Follow up on my narrow bars, I'm going to give these a shot. The price is right and I think the shape is fairly similar to the tarmac bars I'm using now.
http://www.niagaracycle.com/categori...8cm-black-31-7 |
If you ordered the 38cm version, they'll be really narrow, since the Deda bars are measured outside-to-outside. I've got those bars on a couple of bikes and like them.
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Originally Posted by tetonrider
(Post 17404895)
no one can fault shimano cranks, but technically they're 2 bolts and they do have a threaded plastic preload adjuster (albeit the threads are metal). doesn't require the tool, but it is easier to adjust with the tool.
the sram bb30 crank is a 1 bolt setup (well, there is that 1.5 or 2mm set screw), and a tool-less preload adjuster. works out reasonably well. this is better than before they had that preload adjuster--you had to use nylon washers as spacers (in addition to the delrin 10mm spacer). |
Originally Posted by hack
(Post 17426937)
Stopped off at the new sponsor LBS today and they got me squared away on the crankset issue. Added a spacer and torqued the crankset down to where it should be and all the "play" is gone. Ready to roll with power again.
what spacer did they add? were you missing one? curious if you figured out how many threads from "off" your preload adjuster was without the spacer. |
Originally Posted by tetonrider
(Post 17427901)
excellent! glad you're back up and running.
what spacer did they add? were you missing one? curious if you figured out how many threads from "off" your preload adjuster was without the spacer. |
Originally Posted by hack
(Post 17427985)
drive side has the 10mm spacer and the stepped washer. non drive side has a stepped washer, the pre-load, then 5mm of spacers (looks like 2 x 2.5mm spacers). it doesn't look like the pre-load unthreaded. Could probably get away with one less 2.5mm spacer if we opened the pre-load. will ride it around tomorrow and see how it feels.
are you saying the preload adjuster is not being used to add any preload at all now, or have i misunderstood? |
Originally Posted by tetonrider
(Post 17427995)
cool cool.
are you saying the preload adjuster is not being used to add any preload at all now, or have i misunderstood? |
Originally Posted by hack
(Post 17428004)
that's what it looks like. maybe one thread showing.
if there is too much preload, you get more drag and bearing wear (it is material). you can test it easily by loosening the set-screw and backing off the preload. if you can't back it off at all, i'd pull the crank and test by removing one of those 2.5mm spacers. |
Originally Posted by tetonrider
(Post 17428069)
IME with the sram bb30 cranks, it's pretty rare to get the spacers just right so that there is no preload needed.
if there is too much preload, you get more drag and bearing wear (it is material). you can test it easily by loosening the set-screw and backing off the preload. if you can't back it off at all, i'd pull the crank and test by removing one of those 2.5mm spacers. |
Originally Posted by tetonrider
(Post 17428069)
IME with the sram bb30 cranks, it's pretty rare to get the spacers just right so that there is no preload needed.
if there is too much preload, you get more drag and bearing wear (it is material). you can test it easily by loosening the set-screw and backing off the preload. if you can't back it off at all, i'd pull the crank and test by removing one of those 2.5mm spacers. |
Originally Posted by shovelhd
(Post 17428288)
My SRM must be one of the rare ones, then as preload is good with no spacers other than the drive side.
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The thing going for it is that it's a high end frame, native BB30, and an SRM.
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best adapter to run a compact crank on a pf30 bb?
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