Yes, and I've tried grease also. I've used different tools, depending on the situation. I have the BB30 tools from Cannondale and the current install was done by a shop using a proper BB bearing press thing.

The only Loctite product that should be used for BB30 installation is retaining compound. Do not use traditional Loctite thread locker products. With no threads, they are useless for this application. You need retaining compound, which is designed for exactly this application, retaining bearings and bushings in machined surfaces. I use Loctite 603, green, which is a medium strength compound, applied in four equally spaced dots inside the BB shell. No creaks, and the bearings pop right out after a couple of whacks with the Park tool. I don't understand why a BB30 shell would need to be faced as the outer edge is not involved like with a threaded BB shell.

Thanks for the green Loctite explanation, helps. I used blue and red at different times, but those are thread related compounds.

Machining - the Tsunamis are aluminum frames and the BB shell was machined prior to welding, not after. This leaves the shell significantly distorted. I could see daylight outside of parts of the bearing and in other spots the bearing simply wouldn't go in. I filed the tight spots but without any precision. With the facing tools it's a bit better but the stretched parts are obviously not going to shrink.

I was even thinking of having a machine shop machine some thin steel cups to slip into the appropriately machined BB shell. This way I'd know the bearing seat surfaces were parallel/perpendicular. With the facing tool work it's been much better so I've left it for now.

WIth mass production frames the shell is machined after welding.

The steel/aluminum interface may corrode pretty quickly.

Loctite 641 works well for BB30 bearings

Sorry, not faced. Reamed.

http://www.parktool.com/product/ream...ket-shells-752

http://www.parktool.com/uploads/thum...51_430x390.jpg

I haven't had any corrosion issues. 641 looks like it has more filler. Should work fine.

Real bike racers like Cindy Whitehead win 50 mile mountain bike races with 7,500 feet of climbing without a saddle.

My English threaded square taper Campy BB is going strong year after year :50:

I'm getting a slight tick like noise when I press down on the non-drive side crank arm. It's always at the same degree / position (9 to 10 o'clock).

I've checked my shoes, cleats, pedals and today got the shop to remove/clean/re-grease/repress the bb30 bearings. The mechanic said the bearings were fine but the junction was very dirty.

Tonight I test rode and the noise is exactly the same so I'm starting to wonder if the problem is bb30 creak after all. I would imagine the service would have made some difference if that was the problem. In the past when threaded bb's creaked I could create the noise on either side with sufficient force like stomping on the pedal when at bottom dead centre. In this case I can't make a noise with any amount of pressure to the drive side but can still make the non-drive side tick even with a single leg drill.

Ideas?

skewers and pedals.

Every time that happens to me it is the same drill. Take off pedals, crank and BB, greese and reapply. Could be any one of the three, and it is just as fast to do them all versus test out and try to figure what went wrong. I don't always take the BB all the way apart depending on the type. Seems to come back once or twice a year for me.

Chainring bolts.

95% of the creaks on my bike come from this.

I have a set of Reynolds DV46 wheels, and I am starting to upgrade my wheels to 11-speed. (I am not switching to 11-speed yet, but I figure I might as well start slowly upgrading wheels to spread out the cost.)

Does anyone know if I can use a DT 240 freehub body or do I need to get the Reynolds specific one?

Reynolds claims it's a DT 240 freehub built specifically for Reynolds, but it looks just like a regular 240 freehub body. And it wouldnt' be the first time a manufacturer claimed such a thing.

I meant if CDR pressed a steel sleeve into the aluminum bore. I guess in theory with the aluminum material being much more mass it shouldn't be severely galvanic.

I actually replaced my bearings last night. They didn't click but were getting rough. Actually didn't realize how bad they were until the new ones were in.

Took out enduro steels and put in Phil Wood steels so we will see.

Then he would have to ream it oversize and use a non standard bearing.

BB's take a lot of abuse for such a simple device. I've only has this frame for two years and replaced the bearings twice.

Depending on material he could ream oversize, then press in back to standard bearing OD.

Not advocating this, he just mentioned it above.

I installed the Hylix saddle today. Only saved me 20g, but I kind of prefer it. So smooth, no seams. Time will tell.

i have this exact same saddle. the smoothness takes some getting used to. i felt like i was sliding off my bike on a descent. but the the comfort part is no issue at all

I had the toupe pro or whatever the $300 one is. for <1/4 the cost, I figured it was worth trying out. now I can move the pro to my backup ride and take about 2 ounces off that one.

I'm in the market for a new bike. Since I have a $300 rebate towards a Madone and a 20% club discount, I'm leaning towards them (though I really like the C'Dale geometry) however right now no one has a 50-51 frame in stock. I'm not sure if they order them or I'm sol until the 2015's arrive. Regardless, I really don't want to special order a bike I haven't ridden.

I'm also stuck on whether or not to go Ultegra Electric or SRAM Red.

Shaved my arms. 14g of hair, wet (but so is sweat, right?)

I use an SMP Forma and see that Hylix has a similar shape saddle that is like 1/4 the price of an SMP carbon. May check it out.

I want a new bike. I think I'm going to wait until team deals for the next season though. Go SRAM.

Go tron. You'll never go back.