Those wires need to *snap*. I've done 3 builds now (9000 stuff but I assume the same) and all 3 had some wire that I was too much in a hurry to snap in place, but it would work until jarred lose.

Thinking of this saddle: Selle Italia SLR Superflow Saddle | Chain Reaction Cycles

Not for a TT rig, just a spare road bike. Wanted something "worry free" and I'm already 11 speed (campy).

I'll go back through and check all connectors with the tool again and see if it will charge tonight.

It won't charge, no lights illuminate on the junction (thought there may be *some* energy in the battery to illuminate), and the BCR2 lights don't illuminate when I plug it in.

I'm a fan.
My wife road my bike about 30' and was sore for days.
(and I paid $25 more)

Plug it into your computer running E-tube. What does it discover? Did you update firmware everywhere? If you can't do this then either the charger or the front junction has problems.

So I lost the ability to shift into my biggest and smallest cogs a day ago, out of nowhere. I thought maybe some dirt was binding the cables so I gave it a wash and fiddled with adjusting the derailler. No luck. Hated to do it but I took it to the lbs where it was purchased. Diagnosis: rear shifter was just dead, no rhyme or reason. ?? Luckily it is still under warranty. (Dura Ace, 7 months old never banged or dropped)

is this the problem?

Battery came unplugged.

In other news, etube project is very finicky with parallels. Only sees the BCR2 sometimes.

That shifter is displaying the same symptoms as mine. Hmm, so I guess I can call up the shop and have them check it out. Thanks!

Update: The lbs called and after pulling apart the shifter, the cable was frayed. I hope that this will not be a regular issue.

what's the review on shimano 10 vs 11 speed? I hear that the 11 is smoother, but I don't know if that's because the 11 can use smaller gearing gaps due to the extra cog, or if it's because of the newer design in the shifter that allows the shifting to be smoother. if the former, then it shouldn't matter in most situations, because the smallest 7 cogs on the 11-28 is exactly the same, while only the 11 has one extra big cog that makes shifting smoother. If the latter, how great is the difference? I can definitely see a difference between my 6800 and 6700, but my 6700 needs new cable housing, so it's not a fair comparison.

anyone?

Front shifting is greatly improved. My 11sp 105 shifts to the big ring with about half the effort of my 6700. I also like that there's a little less of a need to change cassettes for different races. I used to go between 11-23 and 11-25 depending on RR/crit/hills/etc. Now I just stick with a 12-25 (moved away from a compact crank) for most if not all of my races.

This may not be the case with Ultegra and above, but I've noticed that the 5800 rear shifting is a bit squishy. It does seem to require less effort than 6700, though not as drastically as the front shifting, but it seems to lack indexing affirmation. It works fantastically, just more a "feel" thing, I guess. Squishy to me may be plush to others.

works great with fusion. i manually turn on/off the port (rarely plug it in).

fusion is free to try. last time i did a head-to-head i preferred fusion by a good margin.

this is 6800, no? i believe there has been a bit of an issue with the newest shimano cables and the coating applied. it is slick as hell....but it also wears off a bit and can gum up/jam up the works. i use it for brake cable and like it, but i hear it is more an issue with shifters cables.

if you are using that cable, i'd suggest going with the older DA series of shift cable. otherwise....you need to be diligent about checking/replacing cables.

I noticed that too with my 6800. I wonder if it's because they increased the pull/index ratio. I just spend more time than I had wanted overhauling the cables/housings, and cleaning out the shifter internals with wd40, but it has done little to smooth out the shifting on the 10 speed. I wonder if that's because the 10 speed is old. nevertheless, I'm going to try to sell it to buy 5800 for this one

It is 9000. The lbs didn't have the coated cable so replaced it with the older cable.

9000 uses a thick polymer coating that can shred. Slick as **** though. 7900 uses a very thin PTFE coating. Not as slick but it doesn't shed.

I am going out for a ride now with the new cable, wondering if I'll notice the difference.

I have Di2 so I only have the 9000 brake cables, but it's noticeably better than 7900. The combination of carbon wheels, Black Prince pads, 9000 brakes and cables, it just works really well. Good stopping power, good modulation, low effort.

But you don't have disc brakes, so your braking is awful.

Carbon brakes suck in the rain.

6800/9000 both use the same coated cable. The old version should solve your troubles.

Sure he's got disc brakes...we all do. They are 29" rotors!

I spend the majority of my time on disc brakes.

Either (hydraulic) XTRs or cable actuated BB7s. Both are miles ahead of DA in the rain. And, I'm not talking about stopping power; stopping power is pretty much irrelevant on 25mm tires when it's raining. But, in terms of actually WORKING, and then modulation once they (instantly) engage, it's a different league. Aluminum or carbon rims, it doesn't matter. And, you can build a 6.8kg disc brake bike pretty easily, given modern technology.

My next road bike will definitely be equipped with discs.

So, I am actually not sure what cable the lbs put in there on second thought. It really didn't seem to shift any different though.

Good 'nuf for me.