no worries. I did think about it and definitely don't want to be the guy that causes a wreck due to bad maintenance.

There's nothing wrong with the vittoria's, they just probably aren't the best tire for most of our races. On a fast, clean track, yeah. On thorny, bumpy, generally-terrible farm roads, I think they're more likely to flat out than my booted tire was, that's all.

If I am stationed at the start and/or in the pits, that's part of my job. The Chief, who starts the race most of the time, is focused on other things. They help out with staging but it's not their priority. That leaves it up to us. If I saw something 30 seconds out I would bring it up to the Chief. They could hold the start, pull the rider, or in the case of a crit send them to the pit. Ignoring a known safety hazard is not something a good official is going to do. At a minimum it's more paperwork for the inevitable occurrence report

Since we are on glue

I have ridden mostly tubulars all my cycling life for all riding - since late 70s and my kid does about 8K/year on them too. I used them on all four of my tandems including the Duet tandem stage race. I have rolled them - long ago and contributed to a crash (went sideways to avoid one and rolled it - was using Fast Tack). I have melted glue (tandem) and not crashed.

The limited testing I read about measuring rolling resistance between track glue and road glue was measuring just one brand of each - I recall and I don't recall the brand - and I don't know how well they glued them.
Soyo is the only track glue I can find while there are several brands of road glue I've used and they all are noticeably different in how they dry. Some stay sticky with a high viscosity, some are rubbery with various durometer's.
In the old days I got used to the Vittoria red stuff and the Clement. Now I tend to like the popular Mastik as it seems to dry pretty hard and I believe the energy is not lost like it might be with the squishy types.

So what I do...
Goal - Stay well within safety parameters and minimize all movement of the tire and rim with as little weight as possible yet allowing the tire to be removed without damage.

I like to age tires on clean rims (I have some wood ones I use) in dark closets about a year. Usually I can't/don't - but I like to. However a pre-mount a day or so before to stretch the tire on the clean rim before I mount it is almost always done. Some say this should not be done as it stretches the tire out and does not grab the rim. I do it as I use glue to grab the rim. Usually - if I remember I put electrical tape around the valve to minimize noise from movement and verify my valve extenders are correct. If using Stans etc. now is the time to add it.


Tools/stuff
I have a can a lacquer thinner, and a can of Naphtha (sold in some counties and not others. Can't buy it in OC) and a bag of rags. I have a tube glue/tire although I tend to use 3/4 tube / tire.
Cleaning: The Naphtha is for cleaning off old dry glue and is done a few days before mounting. Its oily and not good for fresh glue. It also does NOT dissolve most stickers. You often do not have to clean rims especially if the prior glue job was the same year and its not too caked on. But I like to and I am a weight weenie.

Gluing time: I go over the rim and base tape with a clean rag and Lacquer thinner trying to avoid decals. I screw this up all the time.
I apply a thin layer of glue to one side of the rim - say to right of spoke holes about 1/4 of the way around the rim. I use my index figure to smooth it on getting 100%. I avoid gluing/putting glue over the spoke holes or in the center. Then I do the next 1/4 until 360 is covered on one half of the tire trough. Then I do the other side. Then I put a little more 360 around the valve hole. I allow it to get somewhat dry. I know some will let dry 24 hours and apply again. In the 80s a guy I glued for liked a different brand on the 2nd coat. While I agree those methods create a tighter bond, more often than not the base tape would stay bonded to the rim when I removed the tire. The weak link was the base tape/tire bond. I don't believe a bond that peals off base tape is required. Also part of the reason I don't glue the center of the tape / rim as that does less for handling/safety and more for making the tire hard to get off.

I inflate the tire to about 20PSI - or until it slightly rolls to one side. I apply a thin coat of glue to one side of the base tape on the edges - 1/4 way around and smooth in with my figure. Then the next 1/4 and then repeat on the other side of the base tape. I put ample glue around the valve 360. So I have a rime with no glue in the center (over spoke holes) and tire with no glue in the center and lots of glue around the valve.

I immediately mount the tire. This takes some practice, but how I do it is how I've seen everyone do it - no need to describe.
Then very quickly I inflate to about 50PSI and try to verify a good seat. The "better" hand made tires often do not seat as well as the machine ones. Sometimes you have to give up quality and performance if you want the very best.

I do one of two things next.
I tie my tires using a nylon rope and make sure each turn creates a small impression in the tire. (see picture)
OR
I put one hand on each side of the axel and roll the tire with maybe 50# of my body weight on the center, then each side. I'm OK with a 300meter ride on the bike going 10mph here too.

The rope method is a real pain but works. The roll method is good enough. The point is I want good contact between the tire and rim everywhere I have glue (not in the center) and don't want gaps.
Then I inflate hard. In the rope method the inflating will cause the tire to be pushed hard onto the glue. Then I clean up with lacquer thinner quite often forgetting that most paint and decals dissolve when hit with a solvent filled rag. Maybe by this time its the fumes that have impaired my judgment.

Rad.

I'm sort of a part timer but thanks.

I scrolled up from the bottom and thought this was a New England outdoor "yeah I'm still training outside" thing.

It would definitely work for that.

Or maybe 50 Shades of Doge

I think things like this are why I raced on and won on a booted clincher.

Lots of races are won on clinchers. Some even booted. More are won on tubulars. I just don't think that's why they're won.

I like zipp vuka sprint bars.

What's a similar bar in shape/etc... but not $350.

anyone?

I have not good idea of price. Many are kind to use and we borrow/swap get deals that do not resemble retail.
So...
The Enve aero thingy's are very nice because they are wider at the drops than the hoods. I saw this bend in the 70s and 80s but its great it returned as this allows wider leverage for sprinting (not you I know) and no interference (knocking you wrists on the top part) and keeps you aero on the hoods.

Spec' has a $300 set that are supposed to be quite nice and 3T has a $280 that look a bit funky.

The 3T Aeronova is pretty close, but they aren't any cheaper.

I really like the specialized aerofly bars. You might be able to find them on ebay as takeoffs from a new venge.

Bontrager has the aluminum aero bars for 99 or so. Almost grabbed one off eBay for $50 but slept in and missed it...

good call. thanks.

Check ebay for sure. I actually bought my vuka sprints new off eBay that was an auction for like $180. Love those bars!

There are fakes. Beware.

how would one be able to tell? Got mine from theproscloset on ebay, and they seem like a reputable dealer

A friend bought some fake 3T bars on ebay knowing they were fake, because they were so cheap. The price is usually the giveaway.

The S-Works Aerofly bar was a better deal when Specialized only charged $220 for them. Just beware the reach is different than the Zipp bars.

I'm not the kind of guy to worry much about 7mm, but thanks!

So. I might be getting some tubular race wheels. Does anyone have any ideas on which tubular tires are a good balance of speed and price?

the Zipp logos are frequently wrong on fakes. But from theproscloset you're good to go.