Then maybe it doesn't. You should check. Aren't 8 speed rings thicker?

Yeah I sent an email to power2max to check. 8 speed is indeed thicker.

Turns out I can use 8 speed rings with the power2max. Now to find $560 in the couch cushions lol

I would like to un-recommend the bikend. Unless you must have 2 sets of wheels. There is small stuff too loose like the pump, hub covers. The air blatters get deflated, the soft case makes it difficult to stick things to - like airline tags.

Junior attacks yesterday and delaminates big ring (or torque spins crank while gears don't go so fast).
Car is 18 back and has to chase 15 miles to catch lead. Kinda sucked but as no power meter nice way to justify torque high enough to have been pulling out (many posts ago).

next you're going to tell us that you dremeled the chainring bolts to save weight though, right?

Are you sure you dudes aren't originally from Connecticut?

Wow, that is not something I've ever seen before.

probably oiled the dropouts again and when the wheel slipped it put a hard stop on the chainring. the ring doesn't look worn, even.

Even if the proximate cause was the wheel suddenly not spinning, for the chainring to break like that before the chain snapping is remarkable.

Stock. He just torqued the lamination apart. It was on an attack.
No "other" issues. I fixed the hub/dropout torque issue.

i gotta say ... you run into some of the most interesting/unique bike issues i have seen

So for the replacement I went from 172.5 to 170s and moved the seat forward and up considerably. We may play with this for crit/TT and go back to 172.5, or even 175 for RR. It is so easy to change. The 170s allow a wee lower front as the knees do not come so high and a straighter leg - and being on junior gears - maybe more spin, although with higher seat, I'm not so sure. I'm hoping he'll let me do some power tests. This is what off season is for.
I used to commute on a fixed 165, and when I switched to 180 on the road bike it was much more dramatic feeling than when I road all the time on the 180.

[MENTION=206539]rkwaki[/MENTION] - how many chainrings have you busted?

what type of grease should one use on an aluminum seatpost in a steel frame to prevent corrosion? i tried just regular grease but have had problems with my seatpost slipping. is it ok to use carbon assembly paste?

Yes. But alloy in steel is a decades old combo. Grease is the right stuff. The post should not slip. Seems something is off size. Certain posts - Thompson, KCNC have lathe lines from machining and are less likely to slip.

it's the right size - the seatpost came with the frame. maybe I just need more torque? only did it to about 6nm IIRC.

I would also suggest you move seat up and forward as much as comfortable/allowed (likely not an issue). In these pictures the seat is too far back to be ideal (because we were trying to get him used to UCI positioning - changed our plan now). Try to keep the elbows in. Also shorter cranks may be better as the knee does not go as high. Since the kids were forced to learn this for TTs, it crosses over to the road and very helpful skill.

You should also flip your seatpost around so we can be seatpost bros.

Did that yesterday.
It's one of those moving rules / enforcement things that change.

UCI (USA Nationals, several Europe races) required saddle tip 5 cm behind BB. That is what the rules say. So we thought we'd at least get him used to that the last 4 years.

But - USA now allows one morphological exemption - meaning they will allow the seat up to even with BB. USA measures road and TT bikes. Road bike - USA measures top 10.
Europe UCI does not allow any morphological exemption (unless over 1.9m tall - and he is not) but - seems only TTs are things they are concerned with and road bike compliance is ignored.




So moving/have moved to the more aggressive seatpost bros style.

Bought a cross frame on a whim ... not too sure why. I had a groupset sitting around and nothing to put it in, so ... yeah. Anyway, what's kind of an all purpose chain ring set that people are rolling around with?

I've got an extra 175, 53/39, 130bcd, but assume the 53 will be too much. I've found a 46t 130bcd outer ring and that may be the best I can get without having to get a whole new crank.

You said what your did, but you did not say what for. Are you going to race cross?
As you reviled you are 6'3" (assuming average build) then for cross go 180's - unless you already spent your money.

Ha ... I might jump into a local race here and there. If anything, it will give me an option to commute on trail as opposed to path or an alternate option for winter riding once this el nino rolls in.

By 180s you mean crank arm length? For the crank (and groupset), there is no money spent, just have an extra group sitting about.

46/38 would be a somewhat typical cross setup on 130 bcd. 46/36 is more common but you can't do that. Personally I'd recommend putting a 42 or 40T race face narrow-wide chainring on there and going 1-by.

Sounds like it's more $$ than a $42 chain ring though and this will need to be pretty low budget.