Originally Posted by repechage
Repechage replies: the 1052/1 was in the 1958 catalog, '60 and '61 p'mounts I have seen as original had them.
1052/1 is the Record paralellogram derailer, I assume? Odd, as the '61 catalouge shows the GS rod operated derailer. Then again, it could be a re-hashed drawing from 1958.
Originally Posted by repechage
You are correct, double checked item is #626, if you can find them for $20 in reasonable shape I will buy three.
If I find myself going into that shop again (had a nasty dispute with the owner last time for doubling prices since I was there last on a Victory caliper), I'll pick some up for you. #626 has the stop on the LH, cable on the right, correct?
Originally Posted by repechage
A bike needs a front AND rear.
And I dare say I can get my hands on a rear - cheap enough, and soon enough
Originally Posted by repechage
Save money, lose originality, I do the same often but when one starts with a big dollar bike frame why cut a small corner?
Actually, you might find that the better DTs will run you close to $70 to do the whole bike. The way I see it, stainless double butted spokes are far superior to the chromed (and rust-potential) spokes, and are by no means cutting corners - rather, an upgrade.
Personally, besides general surface rust/pitting/dulling problems, I've always thought the point of spoke intersection an area were rust potential with chromed spokes is particularly high. Sooner or later, the chrome will rub itself down in that area, and at the same time, water (in the unlikely case that a machine like this may ever contact water) can drip into that area, and unless you run a rag between each spoke, a droplet or two will stay between the spokes. Say hello to a rust spot on those chromed spokes in two weeks.
Not all, best to check the frame, they cam with either 700c tubulars or 27" clinchers, frame geometry differed depending on buyer order choice. My friend cannot put brakes on his '61 with 27" wheels, would have to use "short reach" decades later.
Didn't know that Schwinn would go to those lengths in custom-building a Paramount frame back then, although I see now where a rider who wished to use tubulars would require it - unless he didn't mind using longer brake calipers.
I was discussing open market, if you take a decade or have loads of spare time deals can be had.
Doesn't take much time at all, I've found.
Many differences, in the clamp, in the stamped text, in the backing plate finish, '61 is past the "open" c lever casting period.
Do you have a photo detailing these differences? I'm comparing the orginal levers with that of NRs, and so far, I see the difference in the Campagnolo logo size, but I can't see any difference between an NR lever and the Record lever (save for cable groove width) - unless the Record levers were changed for NRs at one time. The backing plates are completely rusted, but they look to have been finished in black originally, as opposed to the silver of NR, correct?
When you do not need them, $80, when you need them $200. I set up the purchase of NOS chainrings, 53 & 49 as he had original, $220. for both from two different sellers, has not seen a 53 since.
How true it is.
Campagnolo, of course.
True, for this machine, Campag Record. I like the look of the Stronglights though - they add some variety to a primarily Nuovo Record world, one could say.
I mentioned in the text after my list that I forgot the rear mech. Needless to say costs will be variable, but to set one up full Campagnolo it will cost you. If you find a mongrel needing parts like a fork good on ya, but this is in context of a frame with an opening bid of $1350. A different league.
True, but I've run across many good deals suitable for a frame of this caliber. Doesn't have to be
overly expensive. Even if one does put down $1,200 for a frame, that doesn't mean whoever buys it isn't looking for a deal when he looks for the components to go with it.
-Kurt