Originally Posted by sch
Unless you use spokes or techniques that allow the
solder to bind to the spoke then the tie and solder
just puts a little loose ring around the spoke crossing
site. Stainless spokes don't solder easily with ordinary
solder, silver solder would work but requires temps in
the 900-1000F range, not exactly what you want to
expose your spokes to. The wheel would be a little
stiffer with the spokes not soldered and only a little
ring of sodered wire around them but not a stiff as if
the solder adhered to the spokes as well. Bigger
spokes would do as well with a lot less effort. Steve
A good point. The fellow who taught me the solder and tie method said the soldered bee keeper wire acted as a brace, but allowed the wheel to be trued if it was done correctly. He also never recommended the process for any wheel other than track or time trial wheels. I haven't built a solder and tie wheel since the 80's. With the quality of the rims and spokes so good now, that method is not needed IMO.
My twisted spoke pattern allow the spokes to flex but still add more rigidity to the build. My biggest reason for building them in the first place was to make it a tougher wheel when encountering sticks. It definitely does that.