View Single Post
Old 01-13-07, 03:47 PM
  #6  
Matt Gaunt
Senior Member
 
Matt Gaunt's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2004
Location: London, UK
Posts: 2,304
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 18 Post(s)
Liked 1 Time in 1 Post
Originally Posted by TO11MTM
Just checking to be sure. At this point I'd say +1 to the doublechecking of pretension on the bearings. You don't need much! Also no matter what they will not spin quite as freely as, say, Truvativ GigaXPipe cranks due to the fact the bearings are spacered to the correct size. If this really bothers you Enduro sells some better fitting bearings but that's more cash.

My general rule of thumb is if the spindle-holding arm is the only one in the bike, and falls down to 6-o-clock, then the bearings are OK. After that point it's all up to the Preload cap being adjusted properly.
Yep, I'd agree with that. It's hard to describe the amount of movement you should get but that's pretty well spot on. If you're expecting the sort of movement you used to get out of conventional BB bearings like the Octalinks and such like then you may as well give up now. My cranks are nowhere near that free. Which I think is good because they're so much less flexy in the power transfer. Buttery smooth is what you're after, silent operation and TO11MTM's assessment is bob on for my money.
__________________
Matt
2018 Enigma Excel Pic|| 2010 Kinesis Decade Convert2 Pic || 2008 Kinesis RC2 Pics || 2007 Kinesis Pha5e Pics || 2005 Kinesis RC Pics || 1996 Raleigh Max Pics
Matt Gaunt is offline