GCM Denali 700C Review. By CigTech

This was the first report right after I got it home.

At first glance:

I first saw the Denali hanging from the rafters in Wal-Mart (about 30 foot in the air) and the bike looked very nice. So I had the Wal-Mart bicycle clerk get it down for me. The Denali looked even better close up.

The aerodynamic frame is made of 7005 aircraft Aluminum and has 7000 series steel AeroRails aerodynamic forks. The frame has eyelets for fenders and rear rack. The top and down tube are triangle shaped for a aerodynamic advantage. The seat tube and forks are blade shaped for aerodynamic advantage as well. All in all the frame and forks are worth the $147.77 by them self.

So I bought the bike. The bicycle would not fit in the car. So I test road it 6 miles back to the house. It took 24 minutes to get home. That gave me a average speed of 15 mph. Mind you I did not have the bike dialed in for my size yet. And the tires only had 20 lbs. of air in the back, and the front only had 30 lbs. of air. The seat was 2.5 inches to low and the handles where turn down about 15 degrees to low. So, to say the least, the ride home was taxing.

After the test ride home:

On my way home I did notice that the breaks where lacking any kind of stopping power at high speeds. So the first thing I did when I got home was adjust the breaks. The pads where only half way making contact with the breaking surface. I also notice that the break pads are the cheapest kind you can get. All so the back break was rubbing the rim. So I replaced and adjusted them. And now all is well.

The seat post is 9 inches long and can accommodate a person like my self of 6 foot 2 inches. And the Handle bars can be raised 3 inches as well. The headset has a 4 inches reach, along with the top tube length of 21 inches. That gives you a total reach of 33 inches from the center of the seat to the break hoods. That is with the seat all the way in the back position. So if you’re like me with a 26-inch reach it is very comfortable. And with a bicycle inseam of 35" the seat can easily be set at 31 inches (from the center of the cranks). So like I said, it is a nice sized bike for any one from 5' 10 to 6' 2".

The Denali comes with the mountain bike Shimano Revo SIS L2/R7. You may be asking you self "how did they get mountain bike shifters on dorp bars." Easy, they cut the bars in the middle and slid on the shifters. They welded a bar inside the left side and then put the two pieces back together. And secured the two half’s with a bolt and nut. And used a two-piece metal shim to accommodate the gooseneck size. Forks are threaded so they use the one-piece old school gooseneck.

The pedals that come with the Denali are to narrow. I have size 10 1/2 foot and my foot hangs over the out side of the pedals. So any one with a size 7 or bigger foot will need to replace the pedals.

The chainring and cranks are the Prowheel Alloy 335P6 28X38X48 170mm. Which are mountain bike gears. Along with the cassette gears of 14-16-18-20-22-24-28T the top speed at 100 cadence is 27.4 mph. Which is a little low for a road bike. My Peugeot has a 40x52 chainring and a cassette of 13-15-17-19-21-24-28 which has a top speed of 31.24 at a 100 cadence. So as the parts wear out I will be upgrading the gearing.

The shifters are the Shimano Revo SIS L2/R7. Which, as I have said, are mountain bike shifters. 99% of the time they shift smooth (for mountain bike shifters). But I would not compare them to a good set of road bike shifter. I will be replacing them with Shimano Sora St-3300-7 7 Speed STI shifters, to regain the much need handle bar space. With the Shimano Revo shifters there is no room for the computer and headlight. So you will need to get some kind of accessory mount to accommodate a headlight and/or computer.

As for the seat. I have had a lot of bikes in the past 30 years. And most of them come with a seat from hell. But I do have to say that the stock seat on the Denali is a good short ride seat (8 miles or less). And it does come with a kickstand if that matters to you.

So as far as the Denali goes for a commuter bike. If you are on a tight budget and need a good entry-level road bike, that won't break the bank. I say head down to Wal-Mart or Amazon.com and pick one of the GMC Denali bikes up.

GMC Denali SATs:

Frame: Aluminum 7005 straight gauge
Fork: GMC Series 7000 steel
Chain: KMC Z 51
Crankset: Prowheel Alloy 335P6 28X38X48 170mm
Cassette: no named 7 speed, 14-16-18-20-22-24-28T
Rear Derailleur: Shimano RD-TZ30GS 7SPD
Shifters: Shimano Revo SIS L2/R7
Brake levers: Promax BL-250AP Aluminum
Brakes: Promax 501A Alloy Caliper Brake
Rims: Vitesse Alloy black 700CX14GX36H
Tires: Kenda Black With Grey Band 700X28C
Stem: Aluminum black EXT: 100mm 0D.
Handlebar: Maesbend W: 430mm D: 22.0mm
Saddle: Cionlli Black
Seat post: HL Aluminum Micro Adjust 27.2 X 300mm
from Pedals: VP-990S plastic body with steel cage
Water battle cage: 16 oz.
Weight: 29.0 lbs.

OCT. 14, 2006

The First Day at home with the bike after the 6-mile test ride home.

First, I keep it stock for the 2000mile 90 day test/review.
Second, not one thing broke on the Denali.
Third, it was a very fun bike to commute on, but not fast enough. The gearing is a little low for my taste.

The first day after riding it home from the store I took it apart to see how well it was put together. It was lacking the mechanics touch, to say the least. Where do I start on this one.

The breaks where only on the breaking area of the rims by 50%. So relined them.

Then took the wheel off and cleaned out the hubs and bearings. The thick grease is always the first thing I get rid of. Lubed the hubs and bearings with white Lithium grease. This Lithium grease makes the wheel spin easier and lowers roll resistance. But if you use low viscosity grease you will need to lube the bearings more often then with high viscosity grease. So every 500 miles I lubed the BB, hubs, Cranks and bearings. Clean the chain once a week. More if it rains.

Then I pulled the Freewheel, Cassette, Cranks and BB to clean and lube then wit Lithium grease. Pulled the headset and forks. Cleaned the Bearings and races and the lubed with Lithium grease and reassembled the front end. Pulled the shifter cables and lubed them as well. And then adjusted the cables for the breaks and shifters. Checked the chain line and found the front Derailleur was to far inboard. So when it was in 20th. or 21st gear it would rub the Derailleur and the front Derailleur was position way to high on the seat post by 10 mm. Moved the Derailleur down on the seat post and out board about 5mm so it would be in line with the chain line.

Then adjusted the cables tension on the rear Derailleur. With a triple Chainring you will have a long cage rear Derailleur. A long cage Derailleur needs to have the most tension you can get form the cable in first gear. If the cable has too much slack in it then it will shift hard and miss-shift.

Took apart the headset and handlebars. Found out how they put MTB shifters on drop bars. I figured that by the time the 90 day 2000 mile test was done the bars would be bent. But they where not. There where just as strait as the first day that I pulled them apart.

The check the wheel spoke tension and found that 99% of them where way off tension that they needed to be. Tightened the spokes and rechecked the tension. Then checked the wheels for turn and round and readjusted the spokes. Reinstalled the wheels.

Then I pulled the seat post to see how long it was. It is 9 inches long. As I have said before. So had no problem setting the seat to 30.9 inches from the BB center for my height (6’2”). The pulled the seat all the way back to check the length from the middle of the seat to the break hoods (21”). Dialed the bike in for my body size. I found the bike easily fit a 6’2” person well.

Then did a quick 10 mile ride, only stopping to do quick adjustments to the seat and handlebars to get it dialed in all the way for me.

Oct. 22, 2006

The first problem with the Denali.

The first day when I took the bike apart and lubed all the bearings, I forgot the pedals. I heard a cluck sound coming from the right paddle after a 42.6-mile ride. The bearings where dry. So I lubed both pedals and all is good now.

Oct. 23, 2006

The cheap break hoods is that they keep moving around. And the tops of the break hoods have square edges that don’t feel that comfortable in my hands. I tightened them down all the way and that seam to help. But can’t do anything about the feel.

Oct. 24, 2006

The back derailer slipped, causing chain backlash. This of course caused my feet to come off the pedals. I was running it in 21st gear at 34 mph., which is at a 124 cadence. I feel that this would not have happened if I had the better shifters on the bike. But could be due to the long MTB Derailleur. Or a combination of both the Derailleur and shifters. I have re-adjusted the rear shifter. So we will see if it happens again. Well just got the rear Derailleur adjusted. Not as bad as I thought. Barba was right it was the cable, just adjusted the cable and all is fine for now. What I did to fix the chain kick back problem was to pull the cable a little tighter, by means of the cable adjuster on the rear derailer. That's all.


Oct. 29, 2006

The Denali is now making some noise from the rear derailer. Like it's out of adjustment. So I'll have to check that out. It only started making the noise after mile 15 of this morning ride. Does it in 5th 6th and 7th gear using the 48T chainring. The chain was rubbing it on the out side. I tried to adjust it. But nothing I could do to keep it from rubbing the inside when in low gear. And once I adjusted it to clear there then it was rubbing the outside in high gear. I then checked the derailer for chainring teeth clearance. Which it had too much.

The clearance for the front derailer over the largest chainring is 1 to 2mm. It was about 10mm. SO I moved it down and realigned it with the rear gear set to 7th. The chain needs to be a lined with the gear set to 7th gear. You can use a penny or a dime as a feeler gauge. Just put it between the chainring teeth and the out side cage plate. Then check the Derailer to chain alignment and tighten the clamp and your done. Now all is fine once again.

Nov. 6, 2006

I did check and lubed the drive train. Everything is still in good work order. Even checked the chain for ware. Had 526.4 miles on the Denali at this point.

Nov. 11, 2006

Went get on the bike to go to work and the front tire was flat. The tube had a hole in it from a spoke rubbing on the tube. The rim tape was fine, So I think it was just a cheap tube that failed. Replaced the tube with a Nashbar Small Schrader Road Tube and the valve length is 36mm and run into a problem trying to air up the tube. With the Deep-V rims it needs a 45mm length valve. So It was a little hard trying to get the air pump vale seated on the valve to air up the tire. But it is doable. I did get the auto Schrader valve extension and problem fixed.

But I was asked if these rim would take a 32C tire. So I measured the rim side wall spacing and it has a 15mm rim. So it will take from a 23C to a 32C tire. So it was not all bad.

Nov. 14, 2006

While checking out the drive train my 6 year old son knocked over the bike on to the tool box. The seat now has a ripped across the nose of the seat. So I called Kent to see if I could buy a new one. The lady on the phone asked what happened to the seat and how long I have had the bike. Then told me to fax the recite to her and she would replace it for free. I told her that I would pay for shipping and she said that was not necessary. So I got a replacement seat in 5 days. Thanks Kent.

Nov. 17, 2006

I just moved the shifters out a little and then mounted the computer and light. I have big hands and it does not leave much hand space on the top bar. But it does leave enough room for your hands on the top bar. I ride must of the time on the drops or the break hoods.

Nov. 29, 2006

I did notice a little delay when shifting from 3rd to 2nd gears. The delayed shift from 3rd to 2nd was caused by sand in the derailer. So cleaned it out and all is good again.

Dec. 4, 2006

Cleaned and lubed the drive train. I did check the chain and it is still way with in limits, so I give it 500 more miles and check it again.

Dec. 15, 2006

I noticed that the break hood covers are cracking. So I would have to replace them if I was not going to change them out for the break/shifters after the test. The handlebar tape keeps moving and I have to rewrap them again. For the 3rd time. I'm going to put double sided tape under the handlebar tape to help hold it in place.

Dec. 16, 2006

I did have to readjust the rear derailer this morning before the commute. Just a little adjustment, I needed to put a turn on the cable tension nut.

Dec. 29, 2006

Lubed the drive train and adjusted the break pads. Had to rewrap the handlebar tape. I need to get double-sided tape to keep the bar tape in place. It keeps moving around on the bars. And the break hoods are made of a soft rubber that is starting to crack. So I'll have to replace them before another 1000 miles.

Jan. 7, 2007

I was a little late on the 1500 miles bike checkup but did it today after the ride. Anyway, I cleaned and check the drive train. The chain is within limits but I am looking at getting a new one now before it goes out of limits. Then took the hubs apart and cleaned and inspected the bearings. All is well with them. So lubed and reassembled the hubs. Lube the drive train. Took the headset out and checked it for wear or cracks, found none. Reassembled the headset/handlebars. Cleaned and lubed the shifters. All looked good with them. Check the alignment of the break calipers. Did a quick adjustment to the calipers all is well with them. I did finely get the back break to alien right with the rear tire so there is only 2mm space on both sides of the tire. So that is a plus. Checked the frame for wear found none, no cracks or bent tubes. Checked the rear dropouts for alignment, it was dead on. And checked the wheels and they are still true and round. Removed BB, cleaned and lubed the bearings. All is find with the BB. Took the Pedals off and removed the bearings to clean and lube them as well. I was very suppressed to fine nothing wrong after 1700 miles on the bike.

Jan. 14, 2007

At work today I noticed that the right break hood has ripped all the way through. So it is a good thing that I’m change them out with the Sora ST-3300 this next week. If I was not replacing them with the ST-3300 then I would have to replace them with new better hand fitting break levers for sure. I don’t think Kent would repclace the hood rubber covers. But I am going to call them on the 15 to see if they would. This way if you needed them fixed then they will know for sure.