Originally Posted by ajd
Make double-extra-sure the BB fits. Up through the 90s, Raleigh used wide BBs and proprietary threading (26 tpi vs. the standard 24 tpi), and no standard shell will work. Have the bike shop measure the threads.
I actually brought the frame by my shop last night to get it re-tapped. They were sort of incredulous that it had non-standard threads, so they tried threading a BB they had lying around and it worked fine. Surprised me (I'd of course read that Raleigh article by Sheldon), but no complaints here, the less $ I put into this frame the better. Like I said, it's really just a temporary home for some components. I just can't really afford to buy a frame and wheels at the same time. I forgot to check the width of the shell though. Do I need to worry about a few mm?
Originally Posted by dutret
... There is small possibility the tabs on the crank might hit if you put the ring on the outside but it is very unlikely and can be remedied easily by putting the ring on the inside.
Forgive me for being obtuse, but if the tabs on the crank are going to hit when the chainring is on the outside, isn't the chainring going to hit if I move it to the inside? Or are we talking about moving to the inside and using a longer spindle?
Originally Posted by dutret
The miche system is good for track racing but kinda useless on the road. It also has been known to wear down fast with street riding.
Alright, guess I'll just go with a Surly cog and lockring.
Thanks again!