A few comments and replies:
To markF and Fender1
Nice to know from users that the newer Shimano has survived two winters so far. Time will tell how many Winter it will survive.
Wiring.
If you get the Shimano hub, I would recommend against the Shimano auto switch. It's just one extra piece of hardware to wire in and it has a reputation for failing at the worst time. Better go with one of the switched headlights. And pricewise, it costs roughly the same to buy a switched headlight than to buy the Shimano Auto Switch and a non-switched headlight.
Choice of headlights
Basically, if you look amongst offerings by Peter White (and Sheldon Brown), any switched headlight works with any of the hubs. Some are easier to wire than others. Wiring differences :
– Both Shimano hubs are grounded to the frame. Therefore, if you use a Lumotec Oval Plus, it has to be mounted on a plastic bracket to insulate it.
– If you want to use a Lumotec Oval Plus and a secondary headlight, one of the headlights has to be insulated; if you want the same setup with a Shimano hub, the Oval Plus definitely needs to be insulated... and maybe the other one too.
I don't know how the DLumotec behaves with regard to grounding. One might be faced with the same issues as with the Lumotec Oval Plus.
My original system used to be with a Lumotec Oval Plus. It's a very good headlight, though less effective than the E-6. However, the standlight is too weak to be effective if you are stopped in traffic waiting to turn left (for example). I would therefore recommend to use a small be-seen LED headlight as standlight (and extra safely light should your main system fail).
A warning about dual headlights
A system with dual E-6 or a Lumotec and an E-6 works perfectly. However, it seems there are reliability problems in using a DLumotec primary with an E-6 secondary. We thought it was solved this spring, but it appears the problem still exists. BTW, I'm not sure if the problem only exists for those who don't have a wired taillight.