Originally Posted by
kemmer
Of course that's not the only way. You could re-space and re-dish the wheel too.
True, if you don't mind not being able to flip your flip-flop wheel over (which, I imagine, a lot of people don't).
Originally Posted by
kemmer
I could be wrong, but couldn't you also just get a bottom bracket with a spindle length that resulted in a good chain line with the chainring on the outside?
Unfortunately, I don't think anyone makes a bottom bracket with a 97 mm spindle.
After posting this last night, I decided to go ahead and swap the bottom bracket out to fix the chainline. After putting in my UN-54 107 mm BB and switching the chainring to the inside, the chainline was even further off, but to the inside instead of outside. Every time a new inside link tried to mesh onto the cog, the side plate would sit on top of the tooth at first and then drop down onto it after it turned a little further, creating a loud click and rattling the chain around. It was constantly trying to derail.
So, even though I knew it wouldn't work, I decided to move the chainring back to the outside position while leaving the UN-54 BB in just as an experiment. It was basically the same as on the inside, but too far out instead of in. No surprise.
Ultimately, I decided to just put the Sugino BB-3 back in since the chainline was at least closer to correct and I now have a new appreciation for my chainline being almost correct. In fact, it almost seems like the chainline is better now than it was before. Maybe all of that removing and remounting the cranks expanded the holes a bit, so it sits further in now.
