Originally Posted by
Booger1
Well,just got done reading this thread,only took 2 days! I'm doing some research in order to make some commuting lights myself.I wish to thank everyone for there time and commitment to diy lighting.There is alot of good info here.I don't own a camera but my buddy does,so when I get mine finished I will have him take some pictures and show me how to post them(computers aren't my thing).
Welcome! I'm interested in what you come up with for your lighting.
Originally Posted by
Booger1
No questions really,but I do have a couple things that may be of some help.In the automotive world,there are some connectors called "weather-pak",first used by GM.They are weather tight,small,come in different wire sizes,lock together,come in 2-3-4 pins(maybe more),indexed and will take anything you can throw at them (you could hang a SLA battery from them).
Those sound pretty interesting. Do you have any online stores / local parts places where you can buy this kind of connector?
Originally Posted by
Booger1
I don't understand why most people use SLA batteries.The only thing they have going for them these days is shelf life and cost,and that's open for debate.There heavy,they start losing there brightness the second you turn them on (discharge curve is not real good).NiCads or NiMH have a much flatter discharge(better light for longer period) and can be recharged 3-5 as many times,as long as you don't mistreat them(a smart charger will take of that).So I'm not sure SLA's are all that cheap in the long run.
Some of us salvaged "used" SLAs from UPSes and other equipment for a free source of power. Chargers for SLAs are very inexpensive as well. SLAs are also available fiarly inexpensively in larger capacities for those who want to run halogens for long periods. NiMH batteries are available in high amp hour packs, but they're a lot more expensive. For those who like to run their bulbs "in-spec", 12 volt SLA batteries are a lot easier to find than 12 volt NiMH packs.
All that being said, I will soon be buying two 7.2 volt NiMH RC car packs to power my light setup.
Originally Posted by
Booger1
MR-11 and MR-16 bulbs come both covered and open,6 and 12 volt.MR-11's come 5w-35 watt or so,MR-16's come 5w-100w+(not as big of a selection in 6v as 12v) but still plenty for bike lighting.I'm still up in the air myself on which to use,MR-11 for there size or MR-16 for the light output for the same input.Seems like a no-brainer to me to over-volt these bulbs at 7.2/14.4(almost twice the light).So they only last 10% of what there rated,there 3 bucks!
I personally prefer the MR-16s because they are more efficient for the wattage (bigger reflector) and they are more commonly available in my local area. I used Optronics housings (the plastic ones, not the metal ones some use) and they are sized to use MR-16s. The size of the light heads isn't a big deal to me.
Originally Posted by
Booger1
Whipping up a couple of aluminum housings for me is no big deal (been running mills and lathes for 30 years) but if I were to pick a housing out of all the ones I have seen,the Harbour Freight "Pond Scum" lights would be my choice.Not sure they would hang with 20w overvolting or some of the bigger bulbs,but they sure look good!
One last thing,did your know that if you sink your car/truck up to the roof in FRESH water,that all of the electicals systems with motors still work? Starter cranks,electric windows work,wipers work,door locks work,headlights work.Don't ask me how I know this,but have done it MANY,MANY times.You can drive your car/truck right in to a lake and roll down the windows and swim to the surface.
As long as the path of least resistance for the electricity is through the motors / headlights / etc, they will work. I'm not going to ask how or why you tested this, because I'm not sure I want to know.
Originally Posted by
Booger1
Thanks again everyone,best diy thread on the net!!!
Booger1
Well on second thought I do have 1 question.Has any one thought of using the frame as ground if the batteries are not next to the lights,you could get ride of one of the wires.
Some have done this - I remember seeing a post or two on this in this thread. The consensus is that this will work. I used multiple conductor wire (computer AC power cables) for wiring my lights, so all the conductors are in the same package already.
Have fun designing your lights!
Ken