with an aluminum dropout, you should use one. it's a lot of stress on the metal without one.
i like it, i think it's a great looking bike for a very affordable price. nice roadish geometry for fixed gear street use. i wish my kilott used a damn 27.2 seatpost, man that would help me out. also, the internal headset style headtube will really make things easy and weatherproof for a street bike.
the graphics are tasteful and subtle and the colors are simple and look great. i really dig the aero tubing.
i'd like to ride one with a carbon fork, carbon seatpost, and 165mm cranks. and with the price you can get it on ebay, that's definitely doable. i am going to get myself into trouble buying too many bikes in the future if i have a nice job once i graduate.
I'd also like to commend Brian for responding with courtesy and helpful information in the face of so many uselessly negative comments. I doubt I'd keep so cool if someone was trashing my bike without even so much as seeing it in person.
that said, i'd probably opt for a end-style tensioner like a surly in order to add some ease to changing out the wheel. i see how the tension can be set once and not have to worry about it, but changing out a master link is way more work than simply slipping the chain off the cog.
one thing in an ebay listing that i found funny:
Originally Posted by ebay
You can also convert this frame into a track racing bike by just flipping your seat post around.
haha, what? so you can ride backwards? cmon, it takes a lot more than changing the seat tube angle to give a bike track-ready handling.
for the money, i think i'd rather have the 735tr with its beefy looking dropouts and sweet tight angles.
http://cgi.ebay.com/Leader-735TR-51c...QQcmdZViewItem
300 frame
40 headset
70 seatpost
40 cog lockring
150 fork (nashbar/performance)
150 cranks
100 seat
200 wheels tires
50 handlebars
50 stem
50 pedals
=
1200 track bike on par with pista concept or langster pro, custom built by you.