Originally Posted by Map tester
I just bought this Peugeot ($20!). I have looked at some of the on-line info on Peugeots, but thought the crowd here might be able to offer some of their collective wisdom. The specs:
Serial number 1482901B on rear left dropout
Mafac Racer brakes
Norex leather saddle (trying to bring back to life)
chrome front fork ends, but not rear dropouts
braze-ons for cables and pump
front derailleur push-rod Simplex
Chainrings Nervar 52/40
rear derailleur Prestige-Simplex
Maillard freewheel 14/28 (5 speed)
wheels 27 x 1 1/4 RIGIDA with Normandy hubs
I would greatly appricate any help on finding out which model this is. I intend to restore it to a rideable level, for a fun road bike. Thanks for your help!
Likely a Peugeot UO8
Saw lots of these in the 70's. Would guess early 70's. If you can get info on serial# configuration, many companies have the model year as part of the serial number. A few things to look out for since I worked on lots of these bikes. Brake pads will likely need replacing. If Rigida steel rims are serrated on the side, they have a tendency to chew up the pads. The Normandy hubs should be re-packed and the bearings replaced. These hubs scar easily, so the cones and races may already be pitted. Re-pack headset and replace bearings. The freewheel should be lubed. I wouldn't attempt taking it off the wheel since it may be frozen to the hub and being french thread and all, it might not be worth pulling it off (assuming you can find Maillard freewheel tool to do this). I would shoot some Tri-flow in the freewheel to lube it. This means when you repack the bearings in the rear hub, you'll have to pull the axle by taking off the axle nut and cone from the non-freewheel side. Re: Front derailleur, there's a little screw that attaches the front derailleur cage to the push-rod; it's used to adjust the cage for the front large chainring. If you or anyone working on this bike needs to access this screw, do not overtighten it as the screw will strip. A replacement will very difficult to find. Lastly, the cotter pins on the crank. Check to make sure they're tight. Since re-packing bottom bracket would require taking off crank arms, I'd probably skip re-packing the bottom bracket unless you're sure you can find replacement cotter pins or you will be putting significant miles on this bike.Sometimes, you have to destroy them in the process of removing them to remove the crank arms. (i.e. crank arms are not wobbling). If all of this sounds too daunting, call a few local bike shops that have been around awhile that can work on this puppy.