Basic maintenance for '97 Judy

Removing lower legs:

1) Loosen both shaft bolts (5mm head) three full turns (do not remove completely). Tap on the heads with a mallet to loosen the neutral shaft and cartridge. Remove bolts completely and remove the lower leg assembly. Clean out the inside of the lower leg assembly with a rag (be sure not to miss the wiper seals!). Remove the fork boots and clean with soap and water.

2) Bushing replacement (if needed): sorry, kids, you need a bushing installer/puller for this one. However, should you decide to get your own, there are various kits available, ranging from about $50 to a couple hundred.

Either way, while you’re replacing bushings, press in TWO lower bushings in each leg instead of one. This will improve your fork's rigidity, but more importantly, it will also reduce the rate at which your fork wears. Your fork may be sticky at first after you put it back together, but don’t worry; it’ll break in. Trust me. Use the older steel bushings if possible.

3) Loosen the crown bolts and remove each of the stanchion assemblies.

If your fork has press-fit stanchions, leave the crown/steerer/ stanchion assembly on the bicycle, unless you also want to overhaul your headset.

Back off the preload and remove the preload caps and spring stacks. Disassemble the spring stack and clean each part.

Inspect the MCUs and springs. Springs should be replaced if they measure less than 51mm, and MCUs should be replaced if they measure less than 100mm (for 63mm travel models) or 115mm (for 80mm travel models).

Left leg service:


4) Using a pair of snap-ring pliers, remove the snap-ring located at the bottom of the left stanchion assembly (with damper; your fork should also have a wave washer under the snap-ring). Pull the damper cartridge out. Remove the shaft end plate and cartridge washer. Wipe down the inner and outer surfaces of the stanchion tube and all of the damper parts.

5) Check the condition of your damper by pumping the piston back and forth. Is it completely, or even partially, empty? Rock Shox designs their cartridges to be serviceable if necessary, and instructions for doing so can be found here. However, if you frequently blow out cartridges, consider replacing it with a more current Rock Shox model, an aftermarket cartridge, or an Englund air kit.

Should you decide to replace your cartridge, keep in mind that this is an opportunity to alter your fork’s travel. Oil cartridges and Englund kits are both available in a variety of travels.

6) Reassemble the damper cartridge and reinsert it into the left stanchion. Reinstall the wave washer and snap ring (the sharper outside edge faces out, and be sure it is fully seated in its groove!). Reassemble the spring stack and preload cap and reinstall in the stanchion. Reinstall the stanchion assembly into the fork crown, if necessary, so that the stanchion tube extends 1mm above the surface of the crown. Apply blue Loctite to the threads and torque the crown bolts to 60 in-lbs. Slide the fork boot onto the stanchion.

Right leg service:

Note: Judy DH is equipped with a red rebound damper cartridge in its right leg, rather than a neutral shaft. Right leg service for Judy DH is, therefore, identical to the left leg.

7) Remove the snap-ring at the bottom of the right leg. Remove and disassemble the neutral shaft assembly (pay attention to the parts order!!!). Wipe down the inner and outer surface of the stanchion and each of the neutral shaft parts.

8) Reassemble the neutral shaft assembly and reinstall it in the right stanchion. Reinstall the snap ring (the sharper outside edge faces out, and be sure it is fully seated in its groove!). Reassemble the spring stack and preload cap and reinstall in the stanchion. Reinstall the stanchion assembly into the fork crown, if necessary, so that the stanchion tube extends 1mm above the surface of the crown. Apply blue Loctite to the threads and torque the crown bolts to 60 in-lbs. Slide the fork boot onto the stanchion.

Final reassembly:

9) Carefully reinstall the lower leg assembly onto the stanchions (the wiper seals are easily damaged if not installed properly).

Be generous with the Slick Honey on the inner surface of the lowers, but do not put any on the outer surface of the stanchions. Be sure to lube the lower bushings, too.

Reinstall the shaft bolts (the hollow bolt, if you only have one, goes in the left leg) and torque to 60 in-lbs. Slide the bottom of both fork boots over the outer lip of the wiper seals.